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Kathy's Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Phil Broscovak, Kathy Zaiser, 1980s
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Kirk Woerner on Jun 1, 2001

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Steph nearing the top of the spectacular climb Kat...


On the right side of the first buttress, almost to the end, is a beautiful, right-facing dihedral that starts about 30 feet from the ground.

Belay from a ledge you can scramble up to, then begin the perfect finger crack dihedral with good gear for about 20 feet. Pull up and over to the left. You'll be faced with a run-out face (15 feet??) which accepts small dicey gear. I gave it an "s" only because of this part. The gear is hard to make good. Balance up to a weakness in the blocky roof. If memory serves, it's not too hard from here with good, bigger gear (hand-sized)....


Nuts and small cams for the corner, tiny stuff for the face, and bigger (hand-sized?) pieces for the last easier roof.

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By phil broscovak
Jun 23, 2005

HI Kirk. Yes, I believe the first ascent was Kathy Zaiser and myself in the early to mid-eighties. Like Maria's Farewell, this was a route put up as a going away present.
By aaron voreis
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do not hesitate to lead this route. It definately does not warrant an R rating as the face climbing section can be sewn up with good tcus and med-small nuts.
By matthew
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Apr 21, 2014

Lead this yesterday and it was great. I didn't notice a whole lot of spots for placement on the face but the climb was all there and didn't seem that bad. All I can say is FUN.
By Jay M
Dec 18, 2016

Don't let the R rating scare you away. It takes great gear and is a fantastic lead. A 0.3 c4 or something equivalent will help in the dihedral.

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