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Kate's Bush 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, Marge Floyd, Jim Angione, Eric Charlton & Deanne Grey, September 1986
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 12, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: "Kate's Bush". Photo by Blitzo.


This route is on "Bush Dome" which is right and behind "Mel's Diner". Park at the turnout at "Roadside Rock", and walk a short distance west to the formations. "Kate's Bush" is on the right. You'll see a ledge about 25 feet above. Climb the crack system that takes you to the left side of the ledge. It is probably best to belay here. Then climb the obvious crack above. The lower crack is somewhat grainy and awkward(5.8), and the upper crack is a 5.7- joy.


Standard rack

Photos of Kate's Bush Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kate's Bush. Photo by Blitzo.
Kate's Bush. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Kate's Bush". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Kate's Bush". Photo by Blitzo.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 13, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After passing on Chestwig, we did this route as a consolation prize. Woody's comments are spot on. Grainy first half, OK second half. A standard rack + some longs slings will do. Walk off to the climber's left. Worth the tick, but I won't be back.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 29, 2007

Kate needs to clean her bush.

Will be a good route once the choss gets cleaned out. Ok crack. Not sure where the "PG-13" comes from.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 12, 2009

The first bit gave me something to think about (like "why do I always get stuck on the sandbags?"). It was a good route. The second pitch was outstanding. Great moves with solid protection - would give this route three stars if it weren't for the first pitch. Agreed that pg13 confuses me a bit too (maybe the walk down? - be mindful when descending this route). Thought protection was solid on both pitches. Enjoyed this one... a bit off the beaten path, but worthwhile for sure.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Oct 18, 2009

I give the second pitch a little more props... I thought it was a good time. Of course, I didn't get that lead... I had the DISpleasure of the first pitch - which grainy is a good assessment. Not even close to the fun as P2. Not a "must do" but good fun on a busy day.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 24, 2014

doable in one long pitch. thought the hardest move was just above the starting ledge. above the 2nd pitch ledge, possible to chimney up quite a ways before needing to place the next piece. the higher that next piece goes in, the less rope drag
By Serge Smirnov
Feb 21, 2016

As of Feb 2016 there is a rappel anchor to climber's left of where the route ends.

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