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Karwendel Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: Josh Golden Eagle on Oct 22, 2014

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  • Description 

    First climb You Break It You Buy It. Then...

    Pitch 1: (5.6) Traverse up and left 10 feet, then scramble up to an anchor at the base of the gully.

    Walk up the gully 50 feet carefully so as not to dislodge rocks.

    Pitch 2: (5.10c) Look on the left for a corner with a crack with two bolts visible towards the top. The crack has a small roof you will need to overcome. Beware as roof has large suspect block. The remainder of the pitch is bolted.

    Pitch 3: (5.10b) The difficulty eases off a bit towards the end.

    Rappel anchors are 15 feet north of the summit of Big Ben (when climbing up the final pitch, rappel anchors will be hidden on the right side. Carefully glance around the edge to locate them). Do two single rope rappels to the gulley. Walk down the gulley and rappel from top of gulley (top of pitch 1) to the ground. Stay away from base of walls when partners are rappelling when possible due to loose rock.

    Location 

    Route is in a gulley in the middle of Big Ben Tower. You need to climb You Break It You Buy It to get started.

    Protection 

    All pitches have fixed anchors. You may use 0.25 - 0.75 cams to protect the crack on pitch 2.


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