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Dark Star Gully
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L to R R to L Alpha
Birds, The T 
Black Heart T,TR 
Dark Star T,TR 
Darwin T 
Fine Arete S 
Karmic Whiplash S 
Scratch My Back S 
Spring Fling T,TR 
Spring into Action S 
Wraith, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Karmic Whiplash 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Heinrich, Kevin Fosburg, 1996
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jun 22, 2012

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Dono working the upper moves on "Karmic Whipl...

Description 

If 12a/b is your standard, warm up on The Wraith, then test your karma on this. Karmic Whiplash opens up with technical and powerful moves on great rock past three bolts to a rest of sorts, then takes big flat holds leading left and up on easier but pumpy ground past three more bolts to chains. Slightly overhanging the whole way. Consider using a stick clip for the first bolt; a bone-snapping landing awaits the bold but careless. Unlike The Wraith, Karmic Whiplash's bolts all look good. Better than Big in Japan, IMO.

There's a two-bolt extension that heads left from the last bolt before the chains, which apparently was added sometime after publication of the Ruckmans' guide in 1998 (the extension is not shown in their guide). We didn't climb it, but my bet is that it bumps the grade up a notch or two; if you do it, post up!

Location 

Just left of The Wraith. See the page for The Wraith for the approach.

Protection 

Six draws, plus two for the chains.


Photos of Karmic Whiplash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Look down from the top. Lots of flat juggers
Look down from the top. Lots of flat juggers
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the bottom section from up the hill. Rop...
A look at the bottom section from up the hill. Rop...

Comments on Karmic Whiplash Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 11, 2014

Holy crap this is stout! Similar to "Big in Japan" in desperation factor. Hard right off the deck through bolts 1-3. Clipping bolt 2 seemed near impossible. We were unable to figure out how to get out of the finger stack. Reminded me of "Aint no Party" at Dogwood. Last half of the climb is really fun BCC flat jugs on a steep wall. Didn't do the extension. Recommend doing "the Wraith" first and clipping through bolt 3 on the way down to work the crux out on TR. Need to go boulder some more before trying this one again.

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