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Ishinca Valley
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Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes 
Karma de los Cóndores T 
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Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. 
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Karma de los Cóndores 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Kevin Gallagher
Season: June - August + other
Page Views: 3,849
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Feb 22, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo of extended upper pitches. There is one...


On June 18, 2005 Kevin Gallagher and Wayne Crill completed a new route on the previously unclimbed 300m S. face of Huatun Ullokc (the Big Sprout) in the quebrada Ishinca of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. This area is sure to continue gaining attention from alpine rock climbers. This fun route, the first new rock route developed in this quebrada, follows an aesthetic line with spectacular exposure and great climbing. Its easy access and moderate altitude (the base of the wall is at 13,500’) make it a great route for acclimatization. The trail up the quebrada Ishinca is one of the most highly traveled trails in the Cordillera because of its close proximity to Huaraz, and access to the Ishinca base camp, starting off point for many popular alpine summits. Four large, impressive, tower-like rock buttresses rise ominously from the forested slopes of the N. side of the quebrada, guarding the entrance to the valley.Huatun Ullokc is the third buttress passed upon entering the valley. The tall slender S. face, split by a single continuous crack system, is obvious from the Huascarán National Park entrance station where all climbers must register.

We first viewed these impressive rock features en route to Ishinca base camp, in August 2003. The route is accessed via a gulley beginning just before the entrance station to the park. The initial 120m of the face averages dead vertical to a large forested ledge. The upper 240m of the face is clean, grey to orange overhanging granite split by numerous horizontal roofs and bulges. We began on sight leading up the wall, however, vegetation, debris, and loose rocks often forced us to aid and clean sections prior to attempting free climbing. Two alternative 5.9 pitches begin the route, straight up past huge stacked flakes to a finger crack and flake on the left, or hand cracks past a slot and over a tree on the right. P2 is the standout pitch on the lower wall with steep, fun climbing up over a bulgy roof to a sustained beautiful overhanging finger crack and finally lower angle off-width to a nice pillar ledge. P3, the jungle pitch, continues up the corner, into a nice steep hand crack, then a wide chimney and up to the large forested ledge 1/3 of the way up the face. P4 begins lower angle face/corner up to steep hand cracks past an overhang to a ledge. P5 begins with fingers to a small roof, hands through a second roof passing another bulge to a good ledge below the ominous and imposing roofer madness pitch. P6 is the crux pitch with amazing position, climbing, and exposure, climbing through two large, intimidating horizontal roofs, past a Condor roost, true roofer madness. Climb up to and through the first 2m roof via hands to spectacular stance below the crux overhanging R. facing corner. Climb this finger, off-finger, to hands corner to the large 3m off-width roof crack and a balancy belay stance above the roof. P7, the Jenga pitch continues up the widening crack system through another bulgy roof stacked with loose blocks to a nice vertical hand and finger crack. P8 starts with spectacular dual finger cracks passing though two more roofs to a good ledge. The final pitch traverses up and right, around the arete to the sunny E. face and up beautiful knobby granite to the ‘summit’ sidewalk of the first tier.

We named the route Karma de los Cóndores, for the Andean Condors that flew around us daily.


Huatun Ullokc lies approximately 6 miles up quebrada Ishinca from Pashpa (~4 from Collon). The tower is the 2nd farthest to the E. of 4 granite towers on the N. side q. Ishinca maybe halfway to the Ishinca base camp. Maybe 100m before the National park entrance look for a small steep trail up a gulley to the base of hte wall, approximmately a 30 minute hike from the main trail. The route starts near a 20' R. facing corner 25m L. of an obvious small gear cave. The right starting pitch begins up this vegitated corner and the left start beings 10m L.


The pitches go at approximately 9, 11, 9, 10, 11, 11+, 10, 11, and 8. Pitches 4 and 5, and 7 and 8 can be combined into 60m rope-stretching pitches. Bring Gear to 4”, extra in the finger sizes, and two 60m ropes. Originally we rappeled the route requiring two ropes since P6 overhangs too far to get back into the wall, so we left one rope fixed on this pitch. Pitches 7-9 can be rappelled with the remaining single 60 m rope.

In July 2007 Marc Wolff and partner established Compania Vertical a 5 pitch 7b face route that climbs the upper E. face of Huatun Ullokc around the carner to the R. of Karma. In the process they established an excellent rappel line for both routes from the sidewalk summit to the large vegitated ledge above p3. This rappel also requires 2 ropes but is smooth an easy without the Roofer Madness shenanigans. Rappel Karma p3-1 to reach thhe base of the tower. p1 anchor is a bolt and solid KB, all other pitches have bolted belays. The only fixed gear on the route is a KB below the roof on the jenga pitch.

Photos of Karma de los Cóndores Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ...burp... quiero mas Cusqueña por favor
...burp... quiero mas Cusqueña por favor
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Karma de Los Condores marked in red, most...
BETA PHOTO: Original Karma de Los Condores marked in red, most...
Rock Climbing Photo: cowabunga baby
cowabunga baby
Rock Climbing Photo: mi gusta cui, Saludos!
mi gusta cui, Saludos!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin dispatching the difficulties
Kevin dispatching the difficulties
Rock Climbing Photo: redpoint crux comes at the end of the pitch. Gruel...
redpoint crux comes at the end of the pitch. Gruel...
Rock Climbing Photo: in the midst of the good stuff
in the midst of the good stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin begining the roofer madness pitch
Kevin begining the roofer madness pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: begining of the exciting p2
begining of the exciting p2
Rock Climbing Photo: mid p2
mid p2
Rock Climbing Photo: Gearing up at the base
Gearing up at the base
Rock Climbing Photo: Huatun Ullokc from the SE
Huatun Ullokc from the SE
Rock Climbing Photo: S. face of Huatun Ullock.  Karma climbs the crack ...
S. face of Huatun Ullock. Karma climbs the crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Los Torres from base camp.
Los Torres from base camp.
Rock Climbing Photo: View back toward Los Torres del Ishinca from the E...
View back toward Los Torres del Ishinca from the E...

Comments on Karma de los Cóndores Add Comment
Show which comments
By SirTobyThe3rd
Aug 12, 2013

Congrats on the route, it is VERY good! Roofs are insane! Look impossible, but go!

Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome!
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 12, 2013

What a route. The roof pitch might be one of the most enjoyable and most three-dimensional trad pitches I've ever done. Way to look at two impossible-looking roofs and think, "hell, let's have a go at it" to put up this route!

Rock Climbing Photo: Vitaliy M. on the 5.11 approach pitch to the roofs...
Vitaliy M. on the 5.11 approach pitch to the roofs.
By Brady Robinson
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Dave Anderson and I extended the route to the top in 2008, adding some scrambling and 5.9/5.10 through the middle benches, and a 5.11 and a 5.9 pitch up the spectacular upper arete. See topo photo. More info at

Dave also made a video of our ascent. Note that the title is inaccurate in that ours was not the first ascent of the peak. Hats off to Wayne and Kevin for a great route.

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