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Wasserrillen + Nose 

Karlstein Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 1,675'
Location: 47.71838, 12.85041 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 264
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Sep 1, 2016
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With 182 Routes from UIAA grade 3 through 11- and heights from 5m through 37m, there's truly something here for everyone. The crag is well-known and popular, mostly due to the creations by the Huber brothers, Thomas and Alex. Most of the hard routes and many of the easier ones were put up by them.
The area is divided into 10 sectors: Schlangenfels, which is way off to the West; Kugelbachblock at the farthest left of the crags; Matterhorn, Mirakulix, Gelbe Mauer, and the Hauptplatte making up the main climbing wall; the Drugwall which sits above the Anfängerwandl; Wasserrillen + Nose which is the first crag you reach; and the Berliner Turm which is to the right and uphill from Wasserrillen + Nose. The rock is compact limestone and the climbing mostly follows sharp crimps. The most popular climbs are very polished.
Due to the south-facing aspect of most of the rock here, the best seasons are Spring and Fall.
The crags are, for the most part, kid-friendly. The exception is the Drugwall with its narrow ledge. The approach path to the crags isn't stroller-friendly, but the 10 minute walk up the forest road is easily doable with a stroller. Additionally, the Anfängerwandl offers several easy climbs for the kids and beginners.

Getting There 

From the A8, exit at Bad Reichenhall and follow the signs towards Lofer until the street 2101 branches off to the right towards Thumsee-Inzell. Follow this road about 1km and turn left at the edge of town (Karlstein) onto Thumseestraße. After 100m a narrow road heads up the hill to the right (it's a pretty sharp right turn). Follow this road for 200m to a hiker's parking lot. The GPS coordinates given point to this parking lot.
From here, hike up the forest road for about 10 minutes in the direction of the Kugelbachbauer (which is a nice "Gasthaus" (restaurant) where the climbers typically meet after a day at the crag). When the road gets more level (less steep), there's a path that branches off to the right directly in front of a big limestone block - incidentally, this block has 4 routes on it (all grade 6) and is called Asterix, but this block wasn't included in the list of crags above. This path leads to the majority of the climbing. To reach Kugelbachbauer or more climbing at Schlangenfels, continue further up the road. Kugelbachbauer is reached after an additional 10 minutes or an additional 20 minutes (30 total) to reach Schlangenfels.

Climbing Season

For the Germany area.

Weather station 9.1 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Karlstein
Rock Climbing Photo: Wasserrillen follows the clipped bolts.

Wasserrillen 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : Germany : ... : Wasserrillen + Nose
One of the most popular routes here, and most polished, but still pretty good and intriguing. You can use the namesake water grooves to get through the difficult start. It gets easier after the 2nd bolt, but is followed by a long runout with grounder potential between the 3rd and 4th bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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