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Karl's Overhang 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Karl Hammer
Page Views: 3,597
Submitted By: Nat Lim on Jun 26, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Coming into the crux

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Climb a beautiful, yet sustained 15 foot overhanging roof crack, located to the left of Short Subject.

Absolutely stellar yet challenging hand/fist jams to a fantastic pull at the lip.

Becareful, deck potential is possible if not careful on this route!


School rock, look for short subject, and look about 15 feet over to see a very distinct hand fist overhanging roof crack, don't mistake the thin finger overhanging crack to the immediate left of short subject for Karl's Overhang!

Start is a distinct fist crack into roof crack.

Getting down is a scramble back down


Cams or/and passive from .4" up to 2", an optional 3.5" might be useful, doubles in .5-1" useful.

No anchors at top, build your own.

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By Nat Lim
Jun 26, 2008

This was a fantastic climb, the moves varied and challenging. Definitley a must do!

-caution-challenging gear placements.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 2, 2008

Does it merit a pg-13 rating since pro is hard, or are the actual placements good? I remember looking at this a while back, but I don't remember...
By Nat Lim
Jul 7, 2008

Due to the flaring nature of the crack the placements are not obvious, however with some hunting, there are some bomber placements, the challenge is finding the placements while hanging upside down on some interesting jams! The route isn't quite PG but neither is it G.
By urs
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The routes first ascent (Karl Hammer) was put up solo in the dead of winter when the roof was covered up with snow. The first ascent of the roof section wasnt climbed until much later.
By urs
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Finally got back on this after falling at the lip a few years ago. The crack can be protected all the way to the top quite easily however protecting the roof is a little tricking, but all the protection is there. After talking to several locals on the grade all of them said it was a sandbag grade unless you are six foot and can reach the jug above the lip without any problem. The main consensus was 5.11+. 5.11a hand and fist jams through the roof until the lip were you make a desperate deadpoint to the juggy horizontal. However the grade, there are very few places were you can find such a hard and demanding horizontal fist crack and this is definitely one of the classic lines in donner.
By amara larpthaveesarp
Jun 24, 2013

Excellent line, probably 11+. I didn't think the gear placements were too challenging. BD yellow, green, blue, and purple to get you through the crux. Natural anchors. My hands are between a green and a red, so they aren't particularly small, but I had to make a long reach through the main fist section, because I was shoulder deep and nothing was catching. Long arms are a MAJOR plus on this one, especially at the crux. Too bad I'm minus 4! Wear pants unless you have wide giant feet--my ankles/calves were super scraped.
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
May 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The "flaring" nature of this crack doesn't impede gear placement whatsoever. This crack eats gear. If you have trouble finding gear on this route, you've got issues. Great rests on solid hand jams and a solid rest after the first move allow you to place gear pretty much anywhere you like. Solid, amazing route!
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I heard that Karl called this one 5.10c originally.
#1 All time sandbag.
By Kyle Bishop
From: Nevada City, CA
Jun 18, 2017

@Eli agreed!

Someone got a #2 stuck in the beginning of the crack, making it considerably more difficult to get good jams at the start of the wide part. If the #2 were gone, you could match two great hands right away.

If you've got one, bring a funkness and slam that junker out!

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