REI Community
(k) The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Cognition  S 
Crossfire S 
Cry Baby S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Firing line S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
Freshly Squeezed S 
Ginger Snap S 
Go Dog Go S 
Heinous Cling S 
Heinous Cling Start S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack T 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Monster Rage S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Peapod Cave T 
Peep Show S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Power Dive S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Rebirth S 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Karate Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock 1966, FFA: Dean Fry, Steve Lyford 10/73
Season: year round
Page Views: 12,679
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (137)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
sweet non-lower gorge cruiser

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the "fishhook" shaped crack you see as you're hiking towards The Dihedrals area. It is on the vertical wall immediately left of a low angle narrow ramp (ramp is the 1st pitch of Cinamon Slab route, 5.6).

The route has some short, not terribly thought-provoking, though kind of strenuous climbing. And it is great fun! Jam the crack which fluctuates from #3 to #1 Camalot size (hands to thin hands). There are some face holds to take advantage of as well if you prefer. At the top, the crack turns right and traverses for about 6 feet. Step right into a deep chimney and downclimb 6 feet to bolted anchor inside chimney.


Cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot (doubles from #1 to #3). A #0.5 Camalot (or red Alien) works well in protecting the downclimb inside chimney.

Photos of Karate Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on Karate Crack.  Nora on Belay
BETA PHOTO: Tim on Karate Crack. Nora on Belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Elliott lowering after cleaning the Karate Crack. ...
BETA PHOTO: Elliott lowering after cleaning the Karate Crack. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Risa following Karate crack.
Risa following Karate crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Up, over, then down to the anchors.
Up, over, then down to the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kernsie on Karate crack
Kernsie on Karate crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Joe, ready to head up into the "strenuous...
Dr. Joe, ready to head up into the "strenuous...
Rock Climbing Photo: Karate on a Kold day.
Karate on a Kold day.
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife following Karate Crack.  Photo taken from ...
My wife following Karate Crack. Photo taken from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Karate Crack - a beautiful splitter (rarit...
Leading Karate Crack - a beautiful splitter (rarit...

Comments on Karate Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 14, 2017
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 26, 2006

Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great line, but I didn't find the climbing as enjoyable as the cracks of the Lower Gorge. But fun stuff, nonetheless. Camalots work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make Camalots prone to walk, where hexes would be bomber. Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and downclimb to the chains!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are, as it is, make sure the person cleaning the route is fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010

Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun.
By Phill T
May 29, 2012

take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me!
By another Chad
Feb 4, 2013

There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.

By Tatsu Ota
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 30, 2014

Agreed with Chad. Hexes and nuts work very well on this climb
From: boise, Idaho
Sep 28, 2015

This is a great climb minus the anchors setup. As stated by previous comments, someone seconding this climb has to traverse and down climb with fall potential. .. Not sure why they didn't put the anchors above the end of the climb?
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Mar 20, 2016

Too bad about the anchor situation. A possible factor 2 on the anchor of a 1 pitch moderate at a sport crag doesn't seem necessary, but I certainly don't expect anyone will touch it given that it seems to have been that way since '66.
By roy-roygers-mcfreely
Jun 23, 2016

Very pumpy near the top. It seems to me that you should bump all your 2's and 3's, and/or save them for the upper section which is quite pumpy. You don't get a break at the traverse either!

Beware the anchor situation as others have described it!
By Frank F
From: Bend, OR
Nov 9, 2016

Neat crack climb. Good comments above regarding gear, esp. hexes. The anchor situation raises the question of whether a bolt replacement program such as at Smith should replace badly located bolts or provide a new anchor.
By pdxuller
Mar 14, 2017

I am of the opinion that the anchor placement adds to the character of the route and should not be changed.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About