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Kansas Honey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 3 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell, 1980
Page Views: 1,182
Submitted By: David Reuille on Jul 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Ashley nearing the top of Kansas Honey (from Zambo...

Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


The first pitch is bolted. **Use a 70 meter cord to lower. Pitch 2 & 3 are both trad and summit the rock.


This is the second bolted route right of The Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree.


The 1st pitch has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70 meter or double rope rappel needed. The 2nd and 3rd pitches require a set of stoppers and cams to 3 inches.

Photos of Kansas Honey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the bolts on the middle route, w...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the bolts on the middle route, w...

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By Stewart M. Green
Apr 28, 2003

The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were...
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Nov 9, 2013

Pretty fun slab actually. It surprised me a bit. It seems like the bolts kinda wander, but don't worry, they lead you in the right direction. You can use a #2 if you'd like at the last left-facing bulge at the top. Definitely a 70m for rap.
By Karl Kiser
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This is another route with a high first bolt and a less than stellar landing. It is a better stick clip.

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