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Kangaroo Corner 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 1978: Peter Croft and Tami Knight
Page Views: 2,895
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Corner Topo

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This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.

This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).


This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.


Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchors can be found near the top of the cliff.

Photos of Kangaroo Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kangaroo Corner
Kangaroo Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the low crux
Past the low crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the crux.
Finishing up the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark wrapping things up
Mark wrapping things up
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark R cruising the start
Mark R cruising the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Kangaroo Corner - excellent thin corner climbing -...
BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Corner - excellent thin corner climbing -...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux of Kangaroo Corner.
Just past the crux of Kangaroo Corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like a happy little ledge
Looks like a happy little ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: After the crux.
After the crux.

Comments on Kangaroo Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 21, 2006

Classic. As Peter says, a great choice for breaking into leading trad 11s.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 21, 2009

Good gear, sequency...
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Done ti both ways, but is a good deal easier to cheat out left and use the drilled holes from the blasting. Maybe mid to hard 5.10's. Putting the left side "off" where the drilling was done keeps it harder, but still light for 11a.
By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

One of the funnest things to do, nice to play on if you are waiting for another climb.
By Ross Morgan
From: Taos, NM
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Felt like a solid 11a to me.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 3, 2013

Went for the redpoint on this and Flying Circus (10a) yesterday. Got this one, hung on FC. I don't know if that tells you more about my endurance (terrible, and worst in January) than the grading, but thought I'd throw that out there. I've never redpointed a 10d trad route (yet) either, so some more food for thought. I'm not grading it because I'm not too familiar with crack grades beyond solid 5.10, but I'm thinking this has to be soft.

Anyhow, bomber small nuts for the first part, then bomber finger-sized cams before the (easy) runout. Fun, you can squeeze this route in quickly as the challenge is only for a few minutes, then it's an easy romp.
By Ryan Lynne
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't know if I would recommend this as an easy 5.11 gear lead as even though the gear is bomber it can be hard to place "onsight". I recommend placing a small cam down low and then small nuts all the way up. The low cam will protect your nut placements from zippering.

Once you get a hand onto the horizontal at the top of the drill holes, the climb is essentially over and its an easy 5.8 to the chains. A single hand size cam is more than enough to protect this final section.

This climb is a good candidate for a high ball boulder problem.
By Michael T.
From: Mill Creek, WA
Aug 23, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great first 5.11 lead! The crucial foot on the right is so polished my shoes were squeaking, made it a little harder to commit to the full stem.

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