Kane Springs Canyon Rock Climbing
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Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.
From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
109 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',45],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',3]
Classic Climbing Routes in Kane Springs Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kane Springs Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
RP City 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
: Moab Area
: ... : Ice Cream Parlor
This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.Start up easy cracks and ledges. Then commit to the thin seam up and left. Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and fric...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2002
Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun.
By Steve Forbes
Apr 5, 2005
I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 21, 2007
There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Nov 5, 2013
I'd like to give a big thanks to Paul Buchar (I'm assuming it was you). We did 10 towers out here yesterday and out of all those dirty, mank towers only one had less than ideal anchors. I was not expecting that. Along with a few summit registers to boot, thanks Paul.