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Spire Four
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Kamps/Goldstone Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps and Rich Goldstone, 1966
Page Views: 1,301
Submitted By: R.Walters on Mar 30, 2012

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Line taken on the first pitch.


A nice, long route on the N face of Spire 4 that deserves more attention. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but with more traffic, it could clean up pretty nicely.

P1 - Starting at the lowest toe of rock on the N face, link together crack systems traversing back and forth a bit. Belay (gear) in an alcove at the beginning of a large chimney system. You might have to work a bit for the pro, but it's there. (5.8+, ~175')

P2 - Begin up the chimney system, trending left into some offwidth and fist-sized action in the back of a deep cleft. Wriggle onto the summit and belay. (5.8, ~150')


Hike just past the N side of the 3/4 gully to the toe of Spire Four's N face. A fixed pin should be visible from the ground and will get you headed in the right direction.


Doubles from tcu's to #4 Camalot. A #5 and #6 can be placed on P2.
First pitch has a few fixed pins.

Photos of Kamps/Goldstone Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 belay McNeil photo
P1 belay McNeil photo
Rock Climbing Photo: yeah a 6
yeah a 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Spire 4 North Face M. McNeil photo
BETA PHOTO: Spire 4 North Face M. McNeil photo

Comments on Kamps/Goldstone Route Add Comment
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By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Apr 10, 2012

I'm pretty sure the 6 came in handy on that one as well.

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