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Kaibab Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: C. Kirk
New Route: Yes
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 6, 2013

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Description 

This is one of the steeper cracks at the crag. It protects with natural pro and didn't require bolts.

Make a few bouldery moves through an initial bulge with pro once you get higher. This takes you to a large ledge with a bush and some loose rock. Place in gear when you can and get set up underneath the roof with a crack that forms with pods of various sizes. Plug a few finger size cams and launch through the crux sequence to a good hand jam. Place a #1 camelot and climb easier thin hand crack to the anchor

Location 

The right facing corner just left of Warren Piece.

Protection 

Single set to #2 BD with some extras in the finger sizes. Make sure you place bomber pro in the pods before you launch through the crux bulge. If your gear rips your going to hit the ledge below.

Two bolt anchor. Can use the tree above to access anchor and set up top rope.


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