k. The Slime Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Slime Wall / WASP approach trail. The next trail ...
Along the Cliff
The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.
This section starts with Last Frontier
's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP
. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance
et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP
There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one
, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there. Descent: Simple Suff
, Comedy In Three Acts
and Frustration Syndrome
sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
24 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in k. The Slime Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in k. The Slime Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for k. The Slime Wall:
Sundance 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Wasp 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Coprophagia 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Simple Suff 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
The Stand 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 75'
Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall
Falled on Account of Strain 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b New York
: The Gunks
: ... : k. The Slime Wall
Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'. P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move ...[more] Browse More Classics in New York