k. The Slime Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Slime Wall / WASP approach trail. The next trail ...
Along the Cliff
The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.
This section starts with Last Frontier
's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP
. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance
et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP
There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one
, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there. Descent: Simple Suff
, Comedy In Three Acts
and Frustration Syndrome
sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
24 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in k. The Slime Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in k. The Slime Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for k. The Slime Wall:
Sundance 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Wasp 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Coprophagia 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Simple Suff 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
The Stand 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 75'
Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall
Kligfield's Follies 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a New York
: The Gunks
: ... : k. The Slime Wall
Because of Dick Williams' rather superlative description of the difficulty of this route, and after coming to expect 5.11 and up Gunks climbs to be extremely involved and generally terrifying, I'd kept away from it for a long time. However I was psyched to discover that Kligfield's is, for the most part, a good ol' mostly vertical pump with relatively straight-forward gear... reminiscent of a funky granite corner or something you'd find in Eldorado Canyon.The line follows an arching crack syste...[more] Browse More Classics in New York