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(k) Sunshine Face

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Sunshine Face - Left Side 
Sunshine Face - Right Side 

(k) Sunshine Face Rock Climbing 


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Location: 33.76971, -116.69451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,754
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
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Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...

Description 

This fantastic expanse of golden granite is stacked with suberb face and crack routes and is an area rich in climbing history.

Some of the better face climbs here include Hesitation (5.10a), Sundance (5.10b), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), Moondance (5.11c), New Generation (5.11c) and Someone You're Not (5.12d).

Some of the better cracks here include Paisano Chimney (5.8), B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9), The Drain Pipe (5.11b) and Tar and Feathers (5.11d).

Getting There 

Hike left past the (l) Buttress of Cracks to reach this wall which sits just above and slightly right of the Smooth Sole Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

38 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',18],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (k) Sunshine Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (k) Sunshine Face:
Sundike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Iron Cross   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Left Side
Nirvana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Voodoo Child   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Drain Pipe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Chisholm Trail   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Left Side
New Generation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Race With The Devil   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Ishi   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (k) Sunshine Face

Featured Route For (k) Sunshine Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the crux pitch of Moondance.

Moondance 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt. Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on (k) Sunshine Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2013
I have a young friend (a good guy) who has done a lot of sport climbing; he said he'd feel really good if he could lead comfortably at 5.12. I told him that a better ambition would be to lead every route on the Sunshine Face up to 5.11+. It's not about the grade, it's about the rock and the lines we draw upon it.

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