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JW T 
Magic Line 
Too Tight for Pleasure 
Unexpected Pleasure T 

JW 

WI3+

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 7, 2016

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Description 

Viewed from Rt 9N this is the "landmark-location" climb for the area; a large flow over slab.

Most of the time it doesn't touch down, but one way to climb what is there is to lower off from the top after climbing one of the other full-length routes like Unexpected Pleasure, either take turns lowering down and climbing it, or both rap (2 ropes) and climb from whatever stance presents itself.

If it has touched down, climb it as an either and additional, or alternate, pitch2 to Unexpected Pleasure. It's left and a bit up from the P1 belay.

Location 

This is the flow you see from the road.

Protection 

TR or the usual stuff


Comments on JW Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jul 7, 2016

Even if the ice doesn't reach entirely to the bottom, judicious use of the cedar tree on the right can get you up onto the slab without too much trouble.