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Bioturbation Wall
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Just the Tips 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 1/4/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Pat beneath the route.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This left-facing dihedral of excellent varnish varies between fingers and thin-hands with some face features until about 2/3 height, then it pinches down to less than tips, but has flared pods and face features that allow for strenuous laybacking/stemming to a good lock or crimp stance at the chains.
The gear is small and fiddly up top, but the rock is very good and there's good gear a short way below. Punch it!

Location 

About 1/2 way between the prow where the south face meets the west face and the Bioturbation route on the southern aspect. There's a plaque. This is listed as To Be Determined 5.11 in the new Creek guide.

Protection 

(3)green C3s (2) .3-.75 (1)#1, #3---BD sizes
Chain/cold shut anchor


Comments on Just the Tips Add Comment
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By Patrick Kingsbury
Jul 23, 2013

If only it was longer! Sick line and proud fa T!
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 7, 2014

This route is sweet! There is bomber gear all the way up it but a couple of the thin placements at the top are tricky to find and wiggle in. I thought the following rack was perfect to sew it up.

(2).1 (black alien), (1).3, (3).4, (2).5 & (3).75

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