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Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
Moon Shadow S 
New Direction T 
Open Road, The S 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Just in Time 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown (help)
Season: Any time
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: Scott Matz on Aug 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A nice looking route just left of S.I.T. and The Flake, it starts easy and picks up fast. There are a couple of cruxes one is down between the 3rd and 4th bolt, the other is up a couple bolts where the route turns vertical (almost overhanging) most bolts have great stances for clipping. You'll also find good places to catch a rest if you're looking. A lot of good feet.


This is the 2nd route left of The Flake, next to Stuck In Time. Just take a look at Bernard's topo map.


10-12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 1st bolt is up about 10 feet.

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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2009

After trying Brown Palace, we got on this route, definitely pushing my leading skills. It looks like this route could lead to a couple of more pitches, what do you think about that (B.G.)? This is a great route (in the running).
By Bernard Gillett
Aug 5, 2009

I think it's probable at least one more pitch could be added. Whoever put in the initial work on this route (in the early 1990s, I think) apparently intended to continue up the wall as there is one bolt visible from the belay up and left about 15 feet. I'll put it on my check-it-out list (though I may not get to it for a while as I've got designs on some other big routes first, and my summer is coming to an end).
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 6, 2009

Yeah, I did see that it has an old rusty color sling on it. There's a nice chimney system with good holds. Have a good time.
By timoteo
Aug 9, 2009

Funny, I just noticed this route today, there was an Italian family on it- Dad (broken ankle 2 months ago) led it, and 16 year-old daughter hiked it on toprope. He said 11c. Thanks for posting this!
Bernard-I like the name Disneyland! Good luck with the upper pitches. And your latest new pitch on Devils Backbone sounds good- will try it when I become younger, stronger, and more talented. We did the 1st 3 of Brown Palace today, the 2nd pitch is excellent, 3rd spit me off. This is becoming quite the crag!
By Brian Treanor
Jul 23, 2015

A couple of days ago I broke a really good right hand sidepull that I had used to clip (perhaps the 7th bolt? Not exactly sure). Fortunately, the hold did not fully pull out, and so I saved the OS; however, it was moving so much, and so clearly a tempting hold to clip from, that I checked it on the lower, and it popped out with a fairly gentle wiggle. Ran the route again and while the missing hold does make that clip substantially more taxing, I don't think it really changes the grade. There are a few dodgy bolts on this route. I would replace them, but I'm just visiting and do not have the gear.

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