REI Community
Circus Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarian T,S 
Cloudwalker T 
Freak Show S 
Illegal Alien S 
Jimmy the Geek S 
Just Desserts T 
Pygmy Alien T,S 
Roar of the Greasepaint S 
Trapeze T 
Unknown 5.11 T,S 

Just Desserts 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Goss
Page Views: 1,290
Submitted By: Ken Noyce on Nov 14, 2011  with updates from Jared Caldwell

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route heads right from the first set of rap anchors on Cloudwalker. The crux is passing the first bolt after the Cloudwalker anchors.

1st pitch follows the dihedral crack of Cloudwalker for the first 50 feet or so then steps right onto the steeper face of the dihedral for a couple of bolts and ends on a slabby, juggy, overbolted face.

2nd pitch is sport and appears to continue up a slabby, juggy, overbolted face directly above the first pitch anchors.

3rd pitch is also sport.

You will need a 70 meter rope to finish the final pitch.

Protection 

1 or 2 midsized cams to get to the anchors on Cloudwalker then bolts for the rest of the way


Comments on Just Desserts Add Comment
Show which comments
By fossana
From: leeds, ut
May 17, 2016

Whoever retrobolted the crap out of P2-3 is an idiot. The bolts are ~6 feet apart on 5.4 terrain.
By crhaag
From: St.George
Sep 25, 2016

Be sure to tie a good back up knot when rappelling. A 70m did not quite reach the anchor station from the top and we had to clip a bolt with some extended slings, come off the rappel, and then down climb a few feet to the anchor station. Not too sketchy, just unexpected.
By Mike Womack
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 25, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The 2nd rappel was kind of tricky. We ended up rapping cloudwalker. As for the overbolting - I thinks its OK here. If you prefer less clips, then skip some here and there like I did. However, the overbolting allows this climb to make a GREAT first multipitch for a couple of newer climbers making it a little less serious.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About