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Just Another Pretty Face 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,903
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Approaching the crux section...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Just another Pretty Face is a great thin, balancey face climb at the far end of Potash Road. It is located immediately left of a thin seam called "Chris-Cross," and can be identified by a first bolt 25 feet off the deck. The line arcs gently to the left and then finally heads up and then back right to the anchors. Tiny edges and sandy nubbins for the feet, and lots of off balance long reaches make for great fun on this pitch. The book lists the crux as between bolts 3 and 4, but I found the climbing to be pretty cruxy from bolt 3 right to bolt 6.

    Protection 

    Six bolts/pitons to a two bolt anchor. Runout to first bolt - you can protect this by climbing up the neighboring crack, placing a friend, traversing and clipping the first bolt, then back-cleaning the friend, but why bother? If you are not comfortable soloing the 5.8 terrain to the first bolt, you probably will struggle on this climb.


    Photos of Just Another Pretty Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: You can see the sickle-shaped bolt line of 'Just A...
    BETA PHOTO: You can see the sickle-shaped bolt line of 'Just A...

    Comments on Just Another Pretty Face Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 8, 2002

    The crux move after bolt 3 is MUCH harder than the remainder of the climb. I'd say it was 5.10d. The neighboring "Steel Your Face" is also supposedly 5.10a but it seemed like 5.7/5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9/5.9+.
    By J. Hickok
    May 16, 2002
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    Great slab climb. High first bolt, and a slippery crux. One day I found an alternate to the crux that bypassed it to the left and then returned to the original line. It's not that bad getting to the first bolt, and LOTS of people climb this route all the time - despite the high bolt.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 26, 2003

    I am going to have to agree with the upgrading of this climb. When I first did it, I thought it was a casual 5.9. Found out the wrong way. Sandstone slab is tricky but not that tricky. 5.10c/d
    By Matt McMurray
    From: Castle Rock, CO
    Nov 27, 2006
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

    When I climbed JAPF on my last trip through Moab, I thought it would be casual... WRONG! Almost all of the holds were very sandy. This undoubtedly added to the difficulty of the smears, as well as the psychological impact. It all felt very insecure. Even if all the holds were cleaned (which I did as I climbed the route, there is no way the climb is 5.10a. The crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts was not all that obvious, and I found the difficulty to be fairly consistent from the third bolt to the chains.

    Soapbox: As an aside, the runout to the first bolt seemed silly to me. Not that the climbing was difficult, as it was straight-forward and easy compared to the rest of the climb, but as a first ascensionist wouldn't you want people to climb your route? Crazy long/dangerous runouts (25ft) with NO pro doesn't make much sense, and only deters other climbers from trying your line.
    By Jason Anderson
    Nov 13, 2007

    Felt harder than Shadowfax 5.11a, worse holds. I shouldn't have done this, because I felt like I was going to fall and die before the first bolt. Beware. Do Shadowfax instead, it's fun.
    By Blake Summers
    From: Park City, Utah
    Oct 8, 2009
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    Yea, like 10b/c. Stickclip first bolt or climb Steal Your Face first and clip rope into 1st bolt of Pretty Face on lower or just risk the ankles. Whichever. Fun climb.
    By Xstuff
    May 2, 2011

    I found this very hard. I would say like 5.11. I also do think it needs the R.
    By Tyson Waldron
    From: Reno, NV
    Nov 22, 2013
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

    I'm glad I went for this without reading the comments on it, cause I definitely wouldn't have went for it after reading all the comments of a solid sandbag with an R rating.

    Maybe I was in a really good mindset having just climbed Steel Your Face, or it's possible others missed some pretty solid beta at the crux, (think body tension) but I thought the .10a/b grade was right on the money.

    If the first bolt were two moves lower, I don't think the R rating would really be warranted, but you do need to make a couple moves at the end to get this first clip, so be heads up. Usually I am the first to call out a sandbag, but I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Your Face. I did think it was a really good climb, and I do think 5.10 leaders should consider sending it!
    By Mountain Dreamer
    From: Salt Lake City
    Feb 27, 2015

    FYI: The FA actually placed a 1" x 1/4" bolt before the current first bolt. It pulled out in the mid 1990s. It was replaced with a nice long 3/8" bolt about 10 years ago. But that was promptly chopped. Presumably by someone who does not know the history of the route.

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