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Just Another Pitch 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: R. & C. Lenz.
Season: Faces West.
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 1, 2013

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Alan Doak gets to the Crux on the upper 1/2 of 'Ju...

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  • Description 

    This route is surprisingly easy for the initial half, then it packs a punch at the grade up high in the crack, as it is somewhat awkward to top out on that. The gear is mostly good, though the top of the crack is well before the end of the route. A few small stopers can be placed behind a flake up and right of the crack, once on the arete, and a #2 Camalot was as good as the rock it was in when placed behind a 2" flake just up and left on the arete. The climbing past these is not difficult.

    Location 

    This route is the leftmost of the 3 previously published routes (Haas book) on the South Ridge. Hike up the ridge to find the second main formation. The formation is easly identified by two massive flakes that overhang its West face from above like a pair of Mule's Ears. The climb is the left-leaning, left-facing, open book corner that leads to an arete and up to the anchors as for Liquid Crystal.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack to 3.5" with a spare #2 Camalot for the upper flake over the crack. Belay or lower from bolted anchors up and left (North) as for Liquid Crystal.


    Photos of Just Another Pitch Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Doak starts off on the lower 1/2 of Just Anot...
    BETA PHOTO: Alan Doak starts off on the lower 1/2 of Just Anot...

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