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Unsorted Routes:

Just Another Duncan Route 

WI4-5 M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original: WI4-5 M5 [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson
Season: After winter storms
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Eric Wright on Feb 5, 2015

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A little info about Duncan.

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route.

If climbed to the top of the wall, it is one of the longest routes in the Skylight. It has Bird Brain Boulevard quality climbing that can be done in full sun with a descent involving one short 25 meter rappel. This route goes to the top of the wall following an obvious line of gullies and chimneys.

I have not spoken to Duncan Ferguson yet, but I imagine that he soloed to the
top of the wall, then walked right and with a short downclimb, escaped back to the road. Duncan was famous for that sort of behavior. He ticked one after another sketchy, mixed climb au vue and alone.

P1. Climb steep, often thin ice and rock ending at two horizontal bolts (placed to close together IMHO) (70'). Or you can climb the fatter slabby ice to the left and traverse right, M4/5.

P2. Climb the left-facing corner that may or may not have ice to a ledge belay on the right (75'). There is no fixed gear at this stance.

P3. Climb the chimney which has a steep, chockstone blocking exit to another ledge with a nest of ratty fixed gear on the right (75'). Noah seems to think Eric Wellborn left us a pin anchor years ago, and there is a very nasty, old, fixed cam now too.

P4. Continue up the easy chimney and belay at a huge tree on the right (75'). This is a huge ledge that gives access to several different finishes, but please, "no coloring outside the lines" :-)

P5. Climb the chimney with maybe some ice in the back. You will have to find some suitable place to belay, as there is no obvious sheltered stance.

P6. The last pitch has the "sting in the tale" finish. A quite steep exit to the chimney system.

Descent: the route tops out in a pleasant flat forest of mixed trees. Five minutes to the right of post holing will bring you to the the power lines. Rap from some aspen trees 25 meters. Then continue following the power lines until you can clearly see the road. Then it's a short walk back to road. This is the fastest and safest way off the wall.

Please be aware that you are climbing right above the road. All debris from the first four pitches lands right on the road. Don't be the party that breaks the windshield of a miner's truck. We are sharing this amazing resource. So walking off is the most elegant way to climb this route.

Location 

This route is the obvious chimney/corner system right of the huge overhang of the perma draw strewn Poser's Lounge. There are two routes with bolted anchors about 70' up, this is the one on the right, below the inside corner facing left.

Protection 

As for pro, this route is similar to the pro one might take on BBB. If it's covered in ice, you will need more screws. If it's dry/thin, then you are going to need a full rock rack. Pins will get pounded if you have them.

If you are going to finish the route, as you of course should, then one fifty meter rope is enough.

If you plan on rapping off, 60 meter doubles are needed. Rapping after pitch four could be complicated. We found several old pins with rotten old slings in several locations on pitch five and six indicating folks had rapped or bailed from these points.


Photos of Just Another Duncan Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Just Another Duncan Route" as seen from...
BETA PHOTO: "Just Another Duncan Route" as seen from...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last paragraph mentions Duncan F.
Last paragraph mentions Duncan F.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin conditions.
Thin conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch five.
Pitch five.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Dixon, starting pitch five.
Eric Dixon, starting pitch five.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down route, just short of the top.
Looking down route, just short of the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Noah and Erik Wellborn.
Noah and Erik Wellborn.
Rock Climbing Photo: From Supertopo.
From Supertopo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent route. Follow the power lines.
Descent route. Follow the power lines.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch five and six. Yes, those trees are the top.
Pitch five and six. Yes, those trees are the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Dixon, finishing pitch four.
Eric Dixon, finishing pitch four.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Dixon on first pitch.
Eric Dixon on first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: From Supertopo.
From Supertopo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just Another Duncan Route.  Photo taken from The L...
Just Another Duncan Route. Photo taken from The L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep stemming finish just before the forest.
Steep stemming finish just before the forest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches one and two.
BETA PHOTO: Pitches one and two.

Comments on Just Another Duncan Route Add Comment
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By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 22, 2015
rating: WI5 M5-

One of the best on the road in my opinion. I did it in one 60m pitch to Wellborn's nest anchor from back in the day. I guess you could continue up, but it seems most just do the first 60m and then rappel as that's the good stuff. Get on it if it's in. Super classic that many ignore.
By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Feb 24, 2015

I thought this line was called Duncan's Route and Road Warrior was the icy smear uphill from Poseur's Lounge. Not that it matters much, they're both great lines.

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