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Lost Horse Wall - Left Side
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Just Another Crack from LA 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Jim Angione, Jan. 1979
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The route is "B" on this Bob Gaines beta...

Description 

A great name, but a poor route. The climb goes up a thin crack.

Location 

Several hundred feet to the left of the smooth part of Lost Horse Wall

Protection 

Mostly small pieces


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By Bob Gaines
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

The start is what makes this route funky. Without a stack of crash pads and a couple of spotters, if you blow the opening face moves (5.9 R) chances are you'll get hurt bad due to the jumble of jagged blocks for the landing.

You can clip the first bolt of LA Woman and traverse right over to the big flake for a safer start with adequate pro. From the flake climb a few slab moves (5.7 PG) to reach a long vertical crack. Once you get to the crack the pro is good, with some nice jamming near the top (5.9-).
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good luck finding this with Rogers crappy description above... best bet is to use the beta photo for LA Woman, as this route is about 6 feet to the right of LA Woman.

Climbs pretty good for a junker. Opening moves are not that hard and not R rated. By the time you get 3 feet up, good jugs appear and after another move, good pro in the 1" range. Some hand and finger sized cams will get you to the anchor. Maybe a couple of nuts too.

The move off the top of the big flake is an actual 5.6c move, and the fall might be kinda bad. After this mini mental crux a nice hand and finger crack leads to a rap station of slings.
I'd go 1.5 stars if they would let me. Overall rating is probably about 5.8c/d
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought this route was pretty good. Scared off the lead by the "R" rating but found the climbing enjoyable enough. Clean rock, fun moves, crack takes pro...slung boulder for the decent. Worth doing while checking out the neighboring route and would likely do it again while in the area.
By Matt Carroll
Dec 30, 2016

I was able to get a yellow met. cam in down low to protect the first move to the more solid finger lock. I also plugged a comical large offset nut between some nubs to protect the 5.6c move Russ talks about. doubt it would hold a cat on a bungee cord, but it felt fuzzy to see the rope clipped to something. Block on top was slung with reasonable tat on 12/17/16.

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