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Just Acquaintances 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Tad Steel, Linda Jarret
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 1,528
Submitted By: KyleAnderson on Aug 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Just Acquaintances in Lovers Leap

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Follow the main crack in the center of the buttress and stay left when possible. The around the belay tree is loose so be careful. If you stay right the climb is more difficult and harder to protect.


The route is in the center of the buttress to the right of the Hogwild route and left of Accessory Dogs. Follows the main crack up and to the left. It seems best to climb up and walk off.


pro to 3".

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By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

good climb but I'd say it's almost 5.8. I think supertopo has it as 5.6, but Carville has it right at 5.8. good pro.
By SuperDave
Jun 16, 2012

I led both Hogwild and this climb yesterday. This climb is not as good as Hogwild, a bit mungy in places, and has somewhat tricky gear. For me the crux was about 50 feet off the ground. I found one or two places where only a hand jam provided a good handhold, but feet are mostly nice dikes, not much smearing or foot jamming needed. Lots of good rests from which to place gear. After the double cracks the route leads you to a bush that has two slings around it. We continued up to a total length of 170 feet to a very nice belay ledge with a tree behind it to sling. From there we went up and right to another tree (about 40 feet) with two slings as a rap station. Only do this with a 60 meter or longer rope. As you rap down, stay far left. It is a rope stretcher with a 60 meter to make it to the anchors of accessory dogs, which you can only see at the very end when you climb left over a flake. Frump there it is almost a full 30 meter to the ground.
By Greg Gibson
From: Napa, Ca
Jun 19, 2014

The last time I got on this route it sucked as it was early in the spring and things were full of dirt. I ended up bailing on the route as it was very chossy and I didn't trust my feet to be able to do the crux.

Definitly, one of the roughest 5.6 climbs I've ever been on.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun climb, but heads up its more like 5.8
By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
Jun 29, 2015

Good stances, solid pro, long and fun finish to the rappel tree (ref. the SuperDave beta above). This is a good "my the first trad lead" route.
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.6? Maybe not. Pro is good, but it's pretty steep. Don't make this a first lead for someone.

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