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Just A Smidgen Harder 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Hand, Richard Burrows, PH, 7/29/2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,584
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Jul 29, 2014  with updates from Matt Pierce

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At the 1st pitch anchors.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's actually a lot harder.

The 1st pitch climbs the slanting roof above For the Children and is about 5.10b.

The 2nd pitch has a crux above the belay and one just before the anchors. Follow line of bolts on the left side of the final roof.

A 60m rope will make it to the ground on rappel. You probably cannot lower because of abrasion. Because of current river noise, you will not be able to hear the leader. This may change by season. Belaying from the midway anchors, you will not be able to see the leader. Have a plan in advance. The 1st pitch is very good on its own, and you can lower to the ground.

Location 

This is the extension above For the Children.

Protection 

1st pitch - 10 bolts to chains.
2nd pitch - 7 bolts to chains.


Photos of Just A Smidgen Harder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux on top rope.
At the crux on top rope.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the crux of the 1st pitch of Just A Smid...
Beginning the crux of the 1st pitch of Just A Smid...

Comments on Just A Smidgen Harder Add Comment
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By JaniMichaels
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There definitely seemed to be three main cruxes on this climb. The first crux is on the first pitch and and isn't too difficult. The anchors above the first pitch were on rock that was really chossy. My climbing partner was pulling flakes of rock off about a foot away from the anchors, but I'm sure this will get cleaned with time. There is a crux right above the anchors. The last crux is a weird overhang at the top. My 5'10" climbing partner found a nice, hidden crimp hold in a crack for his left hand, I used a right hand jam to get high enough to grab it. Looked like there was an easy cheat to the far left of the bolts. Overall a fun climb that will be great once it's cleaned up. Our 70 meter rope was way overkill for this climb.
By A. Bandos
Nov 3, 2014

Be careful when cleaning. The rock is generally solid near the bolt line, but when the route traverses left on pitch 1 the rock to the right is really loose. If you kick off the wall to reach draws on the right to clean, you may knock something down on your belayer. It happened twice the last time I was at this crag. It's probably best to rap down to clean or have a second clean it as they TR.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Jul 30, 2015

We did an on-sight of this, since it isn't in the new guidebook, but we only did the first pitch. Really good movement, and there didn't seem to be a lot of loose rock. This route is hard to clean on rap, so I brought up my second, and we both rapped off. The description says it goes about .10b, but it really only felt like maybe .9+.
By Theodore Morrow
From: Golden, Co
Feb 18, 2016

Didn't know about the second pitch, will go back to climb it. The first pitch feels very easy, about 5.9/5.9+, and is very very well-protected on bolts. The bolts after the anchor of the 5.4 start are maybe 10' away on 5.4 climbing, just walk up to it... pretty fun roof, especially for new people that want to try something harder than an easy climb.

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