REI Community
Sparks Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Remains T 
Divide and Conquer T 
Generic Spark T 
Go Sparky Go T 
Hawk, The T 
Ici c`est bienne T 
Jump Start T 
Jupiter Crack T 
LGS (Last Great Splitter), The T 
Low Spark T 
Old Sparky T 
Rowdy T 
Scenic Line T 
Skraps T 
Slings and Arrows T 
Spark It Up Sparky T 
Spark Plug T 
Spark Wallberg T 
Sparkling Gefilte Fish T 
Sparkling Prom Date T 
Sparkling Schloob T 
Sparkling Schnitzel T 
Sparkling Spurs T 
Sparkling Zygote T 
Sparks of the Tempest T 
Tom Thumb T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- T 
What a Fool Believes T 
Zebras and Moonbeams T 
Unsorted Routes:

Jupiter Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 6,479
Submitted By: Sam Feuerborn on Mar 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mr Sam sending the traverse.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


2 bolts protect 5.11 moves through Chinle trad pro is available but is more pscyhological than legit, first few ascent parties did it w/out the bolts but was made safe at the request/approval of SH. then a slowly widening hands crack to the left fork which widens from new #5 camalots to #6 camalots


Obvious open book Y crack that can been seen from Ruins camp on right side of the wall.


1 of each in BD C4 1-6

Photos of Jupiter Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to start the wild traverse protected with #5...
About to start the wild traverse protected with #5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo credit to Kayla Watson
Photo credit to Kayla Watson
Rock Climbing Photo: James getting to the good stuff
James getting to the good stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: After 'scendin it!!
After 'scendin it!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach rappelling off Jupiter Crack. What an amazing...
Zach rappelling off Jupiter Crack. What an amazing...

Comments on Jupiter Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Apr 11, 2012

great photo of karin budding following the traverse on page 95 of canyon country climbs. the caption only says 'R-rated traverse', so i never knew which route it was until now. thanks for clearing up one of life's little mysteries for me.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Sep 21, 2012

After 10 years of climbing, I consider this to be possibly the greatest single pitch of rock climbing I've ever done.
By chris Kalous
Oct 7, 2014

Truly one of the greats. I'd add an extra #1 camalot to that rack above.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 30, 2014

This route is definitely awesome!
Not even close to the listed 130'. 70m rope was ample and I imagine a 60m would work.
Also the #6 didn't fit super well at the end, you might want to bring a 2nd #5 instead.
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Mar 30, 2015

Loved this climb! Excellent, especially if you're looking for something unique and wild.

A healthy rack is: 2 x #2 camalots, 2-3 x #3 camalots, 1 x #4 (new) 1 x #4 (old), 2 x #5 (I used new camalots, but old would probably work also), 1 x #6. It was nice to have a 48 inch runner and several slings. I did not find anywhere to place a #1 camalot. DO IT!!!
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Super route! The crux is the start passing the bolts. Very very desperste if you are short.
And whomever put the bolts in should have their head examined. They dont even come close to protecting the crux moves..... In fact a ground fall would happen if you blow it after the first one and a ledge fall after the second. I really dont think Hong would approve of the shitty placements.
By Sam Feuerborn
May 10, 2015

Those bolts have been mentioned a few times, in person and here on the magnificent interwebz.

The first was placed on lead during a ground up ascent to protect the opening moves before the ledge and before it was understood that this climb had already been established.

The second bolt was placed after contact with the FA party had been made and was also placed on lead. It was placed in a location that would make the crux move safe albeit a bit spicy without making the #1 placement above it redundant (I beleive that's what it was, though this memory is a few years old). The fall to the ledge before the next placement wasn't deemed dangerous unless you didn't clip the bolt and chose to place the 00 C3 behind the loose block to the left, in which case sticking the ledge is semi-mandatory.

Only two bolts were placed in order to maintain some of the original character of the climb while also protecting the hardest moves. Yes you could deck before the second bolt (this seems to be the case on a great many bolted climbs), but the climbing is relatively easy.

Have fun and check your knot!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I was skeptical of the greatness but this line truly lives up to its reputation. Far from "R," but a touch heady at the start. Commit and you'll be fine.

Gear: doubles each of #1 to #6 will be more than adequate. The doubles of larger pieces are good for the second. Bring a few long draws to diminish drag.
By Adam Fleming
From: Moab, Utah
4 days ago
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

You can rap with a 70m, but might not be able to TR w/ gear in the wall. If you want to TR, I would belay from above to minimize rope stretch on the technical crux opening moves, then rap when you both are at the anchors (good sized ledge).

A #6 barley fits; a #5 can be skated until the end. A good way to protect the second is to place the #6 (or another #5) at the end, then zipline the #5 down to the piece you placed at the start of the horizontal. The second can then skate the #5 just like the leader. You can do this after reaching the ledge if your tether is long enough.

A #1 can help protect the spicy move after the second bolt. You could go off belay after doing these moves and pull the rope to help with drag. As for the vertical crack, the less gear you plug, the less drag you have. Run it out according to your comfort. #1-3 w/ alpines otherwise.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About