REI Community
Yellowknife Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Normal S 
Alaskan Arches S 
Arctic Circle S 
Aurora Borealis S 
Bering Strait S 
Bridge to Nowhere S 
Cannery Row S 
Chimney Sweeps T 
Cow Patty S 
Gifts From Attu S 
Juno S 
Lone Ranger T 
Lone Wolf T 
Mosquito S 
Nanook of the North S 
Old Yeller T 
Yellowknife S 
Yukon Cornelius S 

Juno 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 360
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Juno climbs around the roof on the left

Description 

No, I didn't spell it wrong ;)

A highly featured route that always stood out to me as a natural line. Just took me the better part of a decade to get around to cleaning and equipping it.

Two very different cruxes, one soon after you leave the ground and one midway up the climb guard an easier and quite pleasant finish to the anchors. Zig a little and zag a little to find the path of least resistance and use creativity to find your solution to the puzzles along the way as there are multiple ways to do them.

Notes:
-Having a hard time grading this one so please chime in. I'm not a fan of slash grades but I really can't decide yet.
-there are a couple hollow flakes to the left of the undercling at the start but you don't need them and I fear that taking them off could destabilize othe features. Just leave em be.
-a few crumbly foots are left down low but that should go away with some traffic, rest assured the rest of the route is on nice and interesting rock.

Location 

Currently the farthest bolted route to the left at Yellowknife next to the summit cliff gully.

Protection 

5 glue in wave bolts to pigtail anchors.


Photos of Juno Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, taking a lap on my creation. photo by devon ha...
Me, taking a lap on my creation. photo by devon ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie getting ready to pull on to the slabby finis...
Torie getting ready to pull on to the slabby finis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Devon working out the lower crux.
Devon working out the lower crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up on the FA... Right hand on a killer jug
Leading up on the FA... Right hand on a killer jug

Comments on Juno Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2016

After climbing it again I downgraded it a bit from my original proposed grade. I think the rain helped clean off the dust and made it feet a little grittier. Super fun low end 5.10.
By Russ Keane
22 hours ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not a bad line. Worth doing if you are looking for something quick. I'd say it's more of a nine. Each of the two cruxes is too mellow for a ten.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About