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The Sanford Wall
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Big One, The S 
Fish-eyed Fool S 
Grey Matter S 
Junkyard S 
Rollo S 
You Big Dummy  S 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1992
Page Views: 1,374
Submitted By: Michael Underwood on Nov 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Starting the sustained section of Junkyard


A slightly overhanging route that can deliver a pump, Junkyard wanders up a series of ragged flakes until the handholds run thin around the fourth bolt, where even the shift of poise during clipping can send you plummeting down to the first bolt for an exhilarating 30' whipper.


Sanford Wall; it's just left of Grey Matter, which follows the arete on the right side of the buttress.


5 bolts, shuts.

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By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This doesn't get the love it deserves, in my opinion. There's now 5 bolts, if memory serves correctly. Easy climbing to the 2nd bolt, figure out a very interesting section to the 3rd bolt, and beware of a whipper if you fall whilst clipping! Starting that clip is the sustained climbing, through the fourth bolt somewhere higher on crimps, and then more small crimps and a redpoint crux to a good hold (and 5th bolt clip) and then it's easy to the anchors.
By Austin Ray
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have to agree with Kate, I loved this route! I especially liked it more than the easier Fish Eyed Fool on the same wall that everyone seems to rave about.

Fairly easy, but pumpy climbing up to the high crux is what gives this the 11 grade. But like she said with 5 bolts now (and some experience falling from the 4th bolt) the falls are short and safe. Definitely hop on this if you are in the area!
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 1, 2016

WARNING: We were there yesterday and the hanger is missing from the 4th bolt.

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