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Junkyard Area

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Junkyard Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.08477, -81.08144 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
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Jeremy Adkins at the top of New Yosimite 5.9

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All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There 

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

44 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Junkyard Area:
Cave Routes 1 and 2   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Junkyard Wall
New River Gunks   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Jumping Jack Flash   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 50'   Junkyard Wall
Labrador Reliever   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Cat Cliff
Mr. Ed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
V-Slot   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Junkyard Wall
The Contortionist   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   Junkyard Wall
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
Lapping the Sap   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Team Jesus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 65'   Junkyard Wall
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
Rapscallion's Blues   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Wall
Zealous   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Zealous Area
Realignment   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Wall
Bubba Meets Jesus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Junkyard Wall
Stuck In Another Dimension   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Junkyard Wall
Reachers of Habit   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Junkyard Wall
Junk Yard Dog   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Junkyard Wall
Yew Nosemite   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Junkyard Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Junkyard Area

Featured Route For Junkyard Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)

Rapscallion's Blues 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Junkyard Wall
A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of Junkyard Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting pumped an avoiding the rain in the cave
Getting pumped an avoiding the rain in the cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering cave
Bouldering cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Junkyard bouldering during a downpour
Junkyard bouldering during a downpour
Rock Climbing Photo: The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gu...
The Copperhead chilling out on top of New River Gu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)
Black Rat Snake (8-10 ft.)
Rock Climbing Photo: Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of Four Sheets...
Copperhead (3 ft) near the base of Four Sheets...

Comments on Junkyard Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd
Aug 2, 2007
Yes we guides do take New River Gunks, Distortionist, Keep it Tight, and the Cave Routes, but the classics that are harder than 5.8 are never taken by guides because we don't want to have to haul our clients up them. Don't fear, Junkyard's 5.9 classics won't be being used by guides on weekends, only by every gym rat within 100+ miles.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
May 27, 2008 mistake...I shouldn't have gone there on a weekend of a three day holiday weekend...between the guides and the top ropers it was almost impossible to get a lead in here. Doesn't anyone lead routes here? I heard one group of two say to their friends, another group of two..."we have a rope set up on a 5.7, a 5.8, a 5.9 and the 5.11 around the corner..." but I digress...
By DaveB
Jun 10, 2008
That sucks. If possible, try again - mid-week, early morning. Great routes, worth a second try.
By Punter Brewster
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 13, 2009
Definitely. I personally only swing by Junkyard on weekdays with a high threat of rain. Seems to do the trick. We were there last Thursday and had the whole crag to ourselves.

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