Junk Yard Dog
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BETA PHOTO: JunkYard Dog
Bolts protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks
Unbelievably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.
Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.
Just around the corner to the right of New River Gunks
. Directly left of the cave entrance.
Two bolts and a bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks
anchors and down a little.
By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015
Just got back on this yesterday, 'ol rusty ain't there no more and the bolts have been replaced with glue ins. The PG13 probably comes from the decision-making after the second bolt to either place (good gear) from a mildly insecure position or just punch it for the mantle. If you didn't place and you
did blow the mantle it'd be a fun ride, but a decent belayer would keep you well off the dirt (So, PG). Also, you can skip the crux move off the dirt by reaching on from the block behind (makes it ~10d). Get a spot for the opening crux, you wouldn't want to blow it and fall back onto said block.