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Juniper Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: spring, summer, fall, and warm/dry days in winter
Page Views: 1,706
Submitted By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008

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Scott climbing just above the rectangular cutout o...


This is a good trad route that goes over the Juniper roof on its left side. A 50 m rope is sufficient.

p1: Start about 20 ft. right of Big E below a rectangular cutout which is about 70 ft. up. There's some vegetation heading up to the cutout. Climb over the ceiling of the cutout (5.7) and continue to a nice belay ledge. There is a 2-4" wide vertical crack for building a belay anchor.

p2: Climb straight up and trend left toward the right-facing dihedral below the roof. The climbing gets thin (5.9+) just below the roof. Stoppers and tri-cams are useful in the dihedral and for the roof move. The climbing gets easier above the roof. Continue to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.


The start is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. For the descent, hike left from the anchors and then scramble/hike up for about 2-3 minutes until you see cairns for a good descent trail.


gear: set of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double-length runners; small tri-cams are useful.
anchors: gear on p1, bolted anchors on p2.

Photos of Juniper Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott below the roof on p2 of Juniper Overhang (No...
Scott below the roof on p2 of Juniper Overhang (No...

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