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Juniper Canyon

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Aquarium Wall 
Brownstone Wall 
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Rainbow Wall, The 
Rose Tower 
Tattle Tale Gully 
Tree Hugger Buttress 

Juniper Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.11436, -115.48707 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 276,961
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 16, 2004
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower.

Getting There 

The climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

98 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',11],['5.8',14],['5.9',25],['5.10',28],['5.11',9],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Juniper Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Jackrabbit Buttress
MysterZ   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Rose Tower
Spare Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cloud Tower
Black Dagger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   Cloud Tower
Armatron   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 680'   Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Ginger Buttress
Saddle Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 590'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Birdhunter Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
Sweet Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 730'   Brownstone Wall
Unimpeachable Groping   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 760'   Ginger Buttress
Power Failure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450'   Ginger Buttress
The Nightcrawler   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   Brownstone Wall
Pro Choice   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
Jungle Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Jungle Wall
Black Rose (AKA Emerald Forest)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Jungle Wall
Time's Up   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
Cloud Tower   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 810'   Cloud Tower
The Original Route   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 14 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Juniper Canyon

Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Colorado climbers Rich and Kevin (belaying) on the...

The Nightcrawler 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Brownstone Wall
The is an excellent route that should not be missed- some of the best 5.10 climbing in red rocks. P3,4 offer some incredible stemming, laybacking, and jamming on perfect varnished rock. P2 has great climbing as well- varied. P1: Start below the right side of the Hourglass on a left-trending low-angled crack. End on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner with a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 150 ft. The length of this pitch will vary depending on how high you are willing to climb unroped.P2: Step le...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Juniper Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...
BETA PHOTO: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper canyon
Juniper canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper Canyon, November 2008.
Juniper Canyon, November 2008.
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper canyon rock
Juniper canyon rock
Rock Climbing Photo: January 5, 2017 on the approach to Ginger Cracks
January 5, 2017 on the approach to Ginger Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to Juniper
Approach to Juniper
Rock Climbing Photo: But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...
Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper Canyon
Juniper Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The Juniper canyon area
The Juniper canyon area
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunsight Notch
Gunsight Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow Mountain
Rainbow Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Late afternoon light streaks through Pine Creek Ca...
Late afternoon light streaks through Pine Creek Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...
South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...
Rock Climbing Photo: munching flowers
munching flowers
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow Mountain at sunrise
Rainbow Mountain at sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: DrJen on the 1st pitch of the classic Crimson Chry...
DrJen on the 1st pitch of the classic Crimson Chry...
Rock Climbing Photo: Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon

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