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Juniper Butte

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Original Route, The T 

Juniper Butte Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 5,421'
Page Views: 678
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 28, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Emily sorts gear beneath the southeast face of Jun...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A triangular butte almost 3/4 of a mile beyond (south of) the Putterman Residence. It rises just west of the VOG Loop Road, with the only known route lying on this roadside (southeast) face. We're unsure if this formation has seen previous climbing activity, but saw no signs of it on our recent visit. Although it's not an aesthetic formation, it presents a summit plateau with steep walls on all aspects. The name of the formation stems from the proximity to the erroneously named Cedar Mesa.

Getting There 

Continue about 3/4 of a mile past (south of) the Putterman Residence on the VOG Loop Road. There are a couple of parking spots directly beneath the roadside (southeast) face of the butte. Scramble up talus for about 15 minutes to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat area.

Weather station 7.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Juniper Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Juniper Butte:
The Original Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Juniper Butte

Featured Route For Juniper Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the Original Route with belays mark...

The Original Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Juniper Butte
This pleasant moderate follows an attractive corner for two short pitches of varied climbing up the southeast face. This was the first known route on the butte. P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Juniper Butte Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The north aspect of Juniper Butte, as seen on the ...
BETA PHOTO: The north aspect of Juniper Butte, as seen on the ...

Comments on Juniper Butte Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jul 23, 2015
According to Desert Rock IV, Franklin Butte is the, "mile long mesa south of the valley's road, between Sitting Hen and Eagle Plume Tower". It was first climbed by Middendorf in 1990, via the narrow east edge.

This butte is much smaller, although still 1/3 mile long. It sits to the west of the loop road, about 1 mile west of Franklin Butte.

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