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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Junior 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Early 1960s: Bob Gilmore
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: Michael G on Jul 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Junior

Description 

Climb the face 10' left of Laurel up to (crux) and past a bulge, then step left and up crack to chain anchors. The arete to the left, or any section of Laurel, are "off". The tough crux is pretty much right off the ground.

Location 

The face left of Laurel, in the Uberfall area of the Trapps.

Protection 

No pro to protect early moves. You can TR using Laurel's chain anchors and a directional.


Photos of Junior Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the initial moves. You can see Lau...
BETA PHOTO: Working through the initial moves. You can see Lau...

Comments on Junior Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011

I think this route is kind of a one move wonder, and that one move is really hard. The rest of the route is 5.7 at best. The bottom (hard part) is interesting enough.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 22, 2012

One move wonder. It's a technical, balancey move particularly for a shorty. Once you make the move the climb backs way down.
By Brandon S
From: Weehawken, NJ
Oct 30, 2013

I agree with the "one move wonder" comments regarding difficulty. But the climb has great movement throughout. Definitely a worthwhile climb.
By kenr
Jul 19, 2014

Interesting crux sequence. Worthwhile as top-rope with directional from Laurel anchor bolts.
(Not surprisingly, much more difficult if much shorter than 5ft7in / 170cm with normal reach.)
By Jay Harrison
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Historical Footnote: Bob Gilmore is 5'9", which makes that reach pretty desperate...but he has a mythological wingspan of 6'6", putting that key crimp well within his grasp.
Better known for his FA of The Sliding Board with Willie Crowther, Bob also explored a few Adirondack crags back in the day.
By JSH
Administrator
Nov 6, 2014

Thanks for the note, Jay. I'm 5'6+" with a negative ape index, and .... yeah, harder than 5.9.
By Steven Scherr
From: Boston
2 days ago

Im not tall enough to reach the crimp from the stable lower foot holds, and this move felt harder than anything on Coronary next door which is mid 5.10. Pretty much standard for gunks 9+.

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