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Junior Jules Doinks a Digit 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser and Jules Van de Hei
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: Kenan on May 31, 2011

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This is the center of the 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the West face of Turret Dome. It is tricky down low and again about 2/3 of the way up. It is thin but direct, and it's all there. Excellent route and spectacular setting.


This is the middle of 3 bolted routes in the upper arch on the West face of Turret Dome, above and left of Guide's Route and other harder lines on the West face. It requires a short, 5.4-ish solo to reach the face below the arch.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

As per the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" Guide, this route is named "Junior Jules Doiks a Digit" and is listed at 5.10b***

"Great climbing up a harder-than-it-looks-start, to a run out after the second bolt. Edge through hollow sounding flakes up and right to a high, height-dependent crux. Easy climbing leads to shared anchors with 'Escorndido'. 6 bolts to a three bolt rappel anchor. (40 ft)."

I climbed this one on Saturday Aug. 24, 2013 and thought it spot on with the description. Not terribly difficult and well worth the short trip up the slab for this and the right-most route - "Escorndido" 5.10a**.
By Kenan
Sep 8, 2013

Thanks, Kenny. The route descriptions and names here were based on info from the "Rock Climbing Colorado" Falcon guidebook by Stuart Green. I have brought up the discrepancies with Ben Schmitt, and it does sound like his new guidebook is likely to be correct on these details, as he reviewed the info for these routes with Bill Schmausser, part of the FA party. Updating route details accordingly.

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