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Junior High 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,836
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 7, 2003

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A little bulge ahead

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This three-pitch line climbs the center of School Rock above the approximate center of the Practice Slabs. Start on an obvious sloping ramp and traverse right to a steep crack. Follow the crack/dihedral system to the top, belaying when necessary to alleviate rope drag.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Junior High Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up pitch 1
Starting up pitch 1

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By fluidlife
4 days ago

CONDITION REPORT 
We did an evening ascent to cap off the day on the 16th of October. If anyone comes across a BD red #1 lying forlornly at the base of the tree before the last pitch it seems to have slipped off its carabiner. I wouldn't trust it if I were you, but I can promise a 6pack and good karma if it ever made it's way back to me, for sentimental purposes...
By Josh Cameron
From: Sacramento, California
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of the better and longer climbs on School Rock. 2 or 3 steep 5.6 sections interspersed with easy 5th and 4th class climbing. Protects quite well, making it a nice lead for a begiining climber.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 22, 2011

The 5.8 direct start is pretty good. I went left over the bulge, which requires an awkward mantle over thin feet. Exciting! This is a pretty fun, alpine feeling excursion for being right off the road.
By Spandex Jesionek
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

No reason to not do the direct start - the traverse otherwise seems to add just too much drag and decrease the amount of climbing, and all just to bypass what is maybe merely a psychological crux and a few moves of easy 5.8. The second pitch dihedral is actually stellar in my opinion, with some quality stemming moves, and would deserve three stars if it was at least twice as long (protects with 2-3 cams only). The leftmost hardest variation on the third pitch protects not as well as the middle and right variations. If you bring a #4 you will use it. All in all pretty fun; do Mary's Crack P1 and P3 with P2 of Junior High for a quality climb (involves some traversing...).
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Jun 3, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I believe that Spandex is mistaken with his post. There is nothing difficult on this route, don't bring a #4, there is no dihedral on the second pitch, and there is pretty much only one way to go if you stay on the proper route. Also a stellar free solo.
By K DJ
Jul 10, 2017

I second Spandex Jesionek regarding that second pitch. Perhaps there is more than one variation on this climb? But there was definitely a short dihedral stem section on the second pitch. This was a fun route, perfect for new trad leaders.
By tagshell
Oct 2, 2017

Did this in 2 pitches using the alternate 5.8 start. Would recommend this, although the alternate start has a very committing move where I had to cut feet and hang on a juggy rail before mantling onto the slopier terrain above. This move is gym-like and not that scary except that I couldn't find great gear at the level of the move - I had a bombed offset nut a few feet below though, but was still worried about hitting the starting ledge.

Above that there is indeed a nice steep dihedral, super fun. Rope drag didn't get bad for me until I got above the cathedral, but then it's 3rd class to the tree. Second pitch is quite easy, the left variation is one reachy 5.7 move and the it's over. Great route!

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