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Jungle Boogaloo 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Marilla and Mitch Yaggie
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Mitch Y on Nov 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Taken from the top of P1. The chimney can be seen ...

Description 

This short multi pitch is not for the faint of heart, but is rather for anyone who doesn't mind getting a little dirty and putting in some work to be rewarded with a beautiful handcrack in a serene, yet eerie, setting.

For full value, you can approach from the top by canyoneering through some beautiful canyons and bushwhacking through 5 ft tall grass (dropped from helicopters after the Slide Fire). On your way in, leave a couple fixed lines for your ascent back out of the canyon. Rap the route, then climb the route, jug out the canyons, and enjoy the cold beers in the cooler of your car at the end of Woody Mountain road; they will be well-earned.

For a shorter and somewhat less adventurous day, you can use the same approach as for other routes on the Coke Wall.

P1 85m. Keep your boots on and jungle-eer your way up the ramp on the left side of the canyon, slinging trees and placing only a piece or two of pro along the way. Begin wherever you feel you need to rope up and end at a very large pine tree with webbing and biners. We simul-climbed about 15 meters to finish this as one pitch with a 70m rope. Using tree branches and shrubs to climb are encouraged, but tread as lightly as possible as to leave them for your second to use.

P2 35m. From the large ponderosa belay, make your way past the last shrubbery and into a clean chimney. Here you will find a lone bolt that will make you glad you don't need the big bros. Continue up and out the chimney to the left (crux) and enter into a stem box. This will eventually end and deposit you into a fat hands crack leading to a two bolt anchor. Bumping a single #5 up and out the chimney is recommended - otherwise your rope will snag your gear and walk it deep into the black depths of the OW.

P3 35m. The sandy money pitch. Escape the belay using some OW technique (crux) and gain the crack above. The crack goes from OW to tight hands and everything in-between. Belay your second from a ponderosa with webbing and a quick link. We initially scrubbed this baby clean, but after a couple months it had gained some sand. Unfortunately, these cracks will be eternally sandy due to the way water drains from the canyon above.

Rap Beta.
P3 to P2 (Ponderosa to two-bolt anchor). 35m
P2 to P1 (Two-bolt anchor to ponderosa). 35m
P1 to two-bolt anchor straight down (hanging belay). ~60m (Unsure of the exact length. We had double 70s but didn't rap to the ends of the ropes. Err on the side of caution.)
Two-bolt anchor to slot canyon floor. 25m

Location 

On the opposing wall of El Machete. The climb begins on the ramp before you enter the slot canyon and climbs to the golden sandstone far above.

If you want to canyoneer to the top of Jungle Boogaloo (as was done on the FA), plan your route from Google Maps. Park near the end of Woody Mountain Rd (approximate coordinates: 34.98262, -111.76683) and head to the top of the route (approximate coordinates: 34.98261, -111.75204). Taking this route will allow you to skip the jungleering on the first pitch.

Protection 

2x #0.75-1, 3x #2, 4-5x #3, 2x #4, 1x #5. A couple small cams and numerous runners for slinging trees for the first pitch


Photos of Jungle Boogaloo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The slot canyon. The last pitch can been seen with...
The slot canyon. The last pitch can been seen with...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 Ramp
P1 Ramp

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