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Sidewinder Rock - West Face
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Jumping Jack Crack 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Long, November 1972
Page Views: 3,280
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

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"Jumping Jack Crack". Photo by Blitzo.


A good excercise in thin hands jamming (even if the crux is short). Start about 65 feet left of Sidewinder and climb the obvious chimney (5.9) to where it ends at a small roof, with a thin crack above. This chimney is unprotected unless you bring a large 4-5 inch cam. At the roof, there is good pro.

Place a piece or two above the roof, then use bad jams, stems and body english to work your way up until you can get a thin hands jam and bring your feet up over the lip of the roof. Once you've established yourself in the crack above, the difficulties ease.

Descend off back of the crag (downclimb a crack or jump 12+ feet down); or jump to top of pinnacle to left and rappel off.


0.5 to 2.5 inches protect upper crack fine; Bring a 4 inch piece if you need pro for the chimney.

Photos of Jumping Jack Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Jumping Jack Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
"Jumping Jack Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephen Quale pulling the crux on Jumping Jack Cra...
Stephen Quale pulling the crux on Jumping Jack Cra...

Comments on Jumping Jack Crack Add Comment
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By tony grice
Nov 10, 2006

NIce tight hands crux if you like that kind of stuff. I took lumps. will redpoint, that byaatch. Takes great gear, just dont put it i n your jams!
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Went to do Sidewinder. people on it. I had #6 cam with me. So I led Jumping Jack. The chimney is 5.9 I protected it with 4.5 Cam and a #6 Cam so I felt safe. The crux was coming out from the roof into the thin finger crack. I went to pull the roof, very awkward. Then fell. Good gear #3 orange metolius cam. Gave another go then pulled the move Very tough climb. i felt like I was going to puke when I got to the top. Done it recently and still fell going over the roof. I'll get this climb clean one day!
By Lucas Dunn
From: San Marcos
Feb 19, 2012

Protected chimney with #4 and #5 camalot's, super solid pro. Really physical climbing at the crux.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Mar 31, 2015

Lucas.... RIP, Lad.
By Addem Bursh
Mar 31, 2015

Was just thinking that, Guy
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 30, 2015

Lucas fell ~ 150 feet to the deck and sustained fatal injuries when a piece of rock his partner characterized as "unstable" gave way. Tragic. RIP, Lucas.

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