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Jump to Light Speed 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: K. Wild, J. Reilly
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: KrisW on May 14, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A low angled corner leads to steep stemming, and a jug on the arete. Above, the splitter straight-in crack slowly dwindles to a finishing slab move. A bolted rap station is just below the station at the end of the Skywalker traverse. The people you see up there are probably at that belay.

Two 20-25 m raps using a station on the right half way will get you down.

Location 

50 m right of the start of Skywalker, a small trail branches left before reaching the main Gobsmacking Wall. This trail less to the base of a low angled corner with steeper climbing above.

Protection 

Standard rack from (Metolius) purple tcu to #3 camalot, doubles from yellow tcu to #1 camalot


Comments on Jump to Light Speed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Lynne
May 25, 2016

squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 30, 2016

Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point).
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I wanted to try this and had seen the commentary on Squamishclimbing. so was planning on doing the old nut trick on the old flattened aluminum hanger and by the time I got there realized I had used my whole rack of nuts. I was really not wild about doing the moves without a bolt, so lowered down for a big nut to use on the hanger. This is a great crack, interesting weird features and very sustained, would be better I think if a new bolt was added. I actually had a bigger run-out below where expecting it to be all finger size, there ia a flaring pod I got a #3 in, then a small ledge where I got a #1, then there is about 15' where you can only fit a #.75 which I used way below.
By KrisW
Aug 28, 2017

That bolt was left for historical context, not protection. If you need it for a couple of slab moves above the bomber gear, you may be better off lowering in from the end of the Skywalker traverse to try it first.

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