REI Community
The Dark Heart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backdoor Man 
Dark Angel 
Heartbreaker Traverse 
Jamocha Joe aka Purple Bunny Fuckers 
Jiffy Pop 
Julio and Me 
Rose Fruited Juniper 
Something Different 
Swirl Wall 
Tall Cool Red One 
Taxing the Pipe 
Ventral Fin 
William's Lectric Shave 

Julio and Me 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C PG13

Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Winter
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: tcamillieri on Feb 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    This problem starts on the shared underclings of Le Chnickel but moves right traversing a ways until you get to an interesting lip encounter that has multiple solutions.

    Beta: (if I can remember right). Start matched on the underclings and get a funky right kneebar. Reach out left hand to a crimp and then get a right foot heel/toe cam. Cross to the pinch left hand and drop your right hand down to a sloper that will allow you to readjust your left hand to change the thumb-catch on the pinch. Step left foot on the crimp you just used for your right hand and surge out to the arete. Swing feet over. From here there are multiple sequences that involve (1) doing a high tension move to allow you to match your left hand to the arete and reach up to the jug, (2) bumping blindly all the way to the jug (that's what I did) or potentially even (3) going feet first and toehooking the jug blindly and then matching it to top out. 3 stars for cool holds, unique movement and beta and decent landing, -1 star for an indirect line and PG-13 for the potential landing in the yucca doing the redpoint crux.


    From the main trail that leads up to the Dark Heart, after passing Ultramega take the trail up and left staying close to the cliffside. There is a small passage that you go through and take your immediate right and you'll see the yucca plant of which I speak.


    Two pads. A spotter to keep you off the yucca.

    Comments on Julio and Me Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About