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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard 1977
Page Views: 3,044
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 10, 2007  with updates from Tom Howard

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: BTM starting up P2 ...

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  • Description 

    Ohhhh Julia...boy was she good. Three quality pitches of climbing, each as spicy and interesting as the other. P1 - Work up the same corner as Little Corner until you can step left into an overhanging and "liebacking" fingercrack. Climb until the angle eases off and belay. P2 - Traverse left on thin holds and then up. Climb a short shallow dihedral, then up to a chimney/slot (spooky), make committing moves onto the face and climb up to the top of a block/flake under a roof/flake. P3 - Pull the roof on flakes and run up to the top as the angle eases and belay. Hike back to camp and have a cold one...


    Start in the same corner as Little Corner.


    Trad, baby!

    Photos of Julia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the first pitches of Julia and the l...
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the first pitches of Julia and the l...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The corner system of Julia (left) and Little Corne...
    The corner system of Julia (left) and Little Corne...

    Comments on Julia Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ryan Williams
    From: London (sort of)
    Oct 21, 2011
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    We did this in two long pitches. My partner belayed to the right of a tree, below the first roof. I did about a 170 foot pitch to the next big tree ledge on the left. Then we scrambled/soloed up the gully about 30 feet left of the tree.

    There is about 20 feet of .10b climbing, with the rest being 5.9 or easier. Great route if your trying to break into the mid-10s... just make sure you get good gear at the crux or you'll land in the top of a tree!
    By freddie hutch
    Nov 19, 2012

    An excellent route with good gear for the crux move. Some of the upper sections are freaky and/or scary, but it all amounts to another fun ride up shortoff. This is one of my favorites so far! You can easily scramble up to the tree below the opening moves and do this in two pitches, though I usually do it 3.
    By Blake Lehmans
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Feb 16, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This thing is Awesome! Just as good(if not better) than Constuction Job, but honestly not much harder. This thing is packed with unique movement and fun climbing almost the entire way to the top. Highly recommend this one!
    By Mike Nevko
    From: Currently Charlotte
    Apr 10, 2017

    Harder than the other 10a's, and you need to have a bag of tricks as each part requires a different style to get through.
    We did in 2 pitches (70M). P1 from ground, scrambled to base of finger crack. pushed up to the the large bush-ledge where little corner meets up. P2 from the ledge push up through the roofs and flakes to the top and belayed from large pine. Scrambled off to the left gulley that Ryan mentioned. (30ft of class 4)
    By Chuck Parks
    From: Atlanta, GA
    May 1, 2017

    There's a loose block about the size of a Coleman stove as you start to head into the business on pitch 1. On the left side of the corner you'll see a nice, inviting ledge/jug. It's actually the top of a loose block that flexes out considerably if you pull on it. Tread lightly!

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