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Julia's Spire
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Julia Dream T 
Wet Notch T 

Julia Dream 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2 [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay-Solo
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 26, 2007

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Top half of spire. The route takes broken rock beh...

Description 

Scramble up the gully between the spire and the lower cliff. Traverse left along narrow ledge w/ exposure to belay bolt (this was my 1st piece).
KBs and hooks go up broken, hollow-sounding rock; meander R under roof to quality limestone with wide crack on black face. Continue up further to edges and anchor.
This could use a bolt or two in broken section for a free climb, but you'd have to bust out a layer of the hollow stuff to get a good hole.

Protection 

Standard aid rack. Cams for crack. Bolts (no hangers).


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