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Juicy Fingers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Tom Bowker 1986 or 7
Page Views: 1,842
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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This obscure trad climb lives just to the left of the popular 5.10a Scene of the Crime and though its not nearly as nice as that route i did find it fun (please note: im a trad dork and unless you are too you might not like this one). It's a bit dirty and not super aesthetic but contains some cool holds and fun moves.

Just left of Scene of the Crime locate a piton sticking out about 20-25 ft up on the right side of the super dirty corner. Climb up to there starting on some of the same holds as for scene of the crime but a little left. There is a pin about 15 feet up. And another very rusty one 5 feet up from that (i placed a blue tcu here instead of the pin). At this point move up and left past a good pin and up to a right leaning crack. Hand traverse right along the crack to a mantel move on good holds and the quick clip anchors of Scene of he Crime.


Just left of Scene of the Crime.


Trad gear, mostly small cams and a few pins to quick clips.

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By bradley white
From: Bend
Mar 26, 2010

Thank you for the stars. A worth while climb. The pin protection has seen better days. This is/was the crux protection. It should be bolted where the pins are. The year of the first ascent is way off. The climb was done in 1986 or 7 by Tom Bowker and I. I did lead it.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Mar 26, 2010

Do you think it should be retroed? Im not saying I think it should be just curious about what you think?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 26, 2010

I think so too Bradley, at least a couple of the pins. I'll take a look at it next time I am there with the equipment and see what can be done. It is a nice line.

So same or less number of bolts as there are pins, as a mixed route, is how you would like it? I think it would be good like that. For those who don't want to lead it with gear it could be easely TRed with the few bolts as directionals.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 27, 2010

any reason you wouldnt just replace the pins?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jun 9, 2010

The pin if it comes out without breaking, the hole left usually requires a deeper placement of a bigger piton than before. Pins can fill or expand and weaken an otherwise sound rock hold sometimes. Pins can appear excellent and be rotted beneath the surface.
For the style I climb in mostly, I don't go without them though. Anywhere now in New Hampshire I encourage where safety first is required put in a bolt where that old rotted pin is. Having the pin slot open for fingers could down grade the climb to (5.9).
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 30, 2013

I did a couple partial days cleaning on this recently, enough to decide not to put bolts in, mostly because the roof area consists of a large block with cracks all around and in back of it. I figured bolts would draw crowds on to the climb and I don't think the rock is sound enough to encourage people on to it who wouldn't put thought into judging it. It is just a way too popular spot

If you do climb it, after the roof the crack angling out right to the Scene of the Climb anchors looks bomber with gear. Staying on the face above looks like it would protect with wires and small cams pretty well too (might need to clean the placements out a little more). Be aware though that most of the pins on the lower part of the route are complete crap and if the roof block ever does decide to pop out it will be over for you and your belayer.

I might recheck the block with a big bar at some point and re-evaluate.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Apr 1, 2015

There are three pitons on this route, all of which seem solidish. I used a TCU, and a .75 BD C4. Under the roof the rock seems relatively secure, but maybe not for high traffic.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 1, 2015

The only way I would say those 30 yo pins (in often soaked broken schist) are solid is yes, they are not a liquid or gas. You should go back and test them with a hammer Eli, and see how they sound, and maybe give them a light funk. You wouldn't have much rope out at all if you fell on them. Remember the Eiger Sanction
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 4, 2015

At the time I had pulled on them a lot, and didn't entirely trust them. I do not ever intend to lead that route again, though it was pretty enjoyable actually. Unfortunately bolting this route would be a squeeze job like no other, and the other two routes are definitely better. Just more weird Rumney routes for a few to have fun with.

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