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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jennifer Knezek
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 16, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Kaycee on Jugular. Canon 70D 50mm


A steep, mostly juggy route with a hidden pocket.

The start is fairly intimidating because the landing in case of a fall before the first bolt isn't great. However, the holds are there, so fear not...

After clipping the first bolt and breathing easier, start up a slightly-overhanging section that will cause you to wonder how in the world this can be 5.8. You'll wonder, that is, until you figure things out and then you'll just think it's a huge pile-o'-fun.

Continue through a less-steep section, and then find your way through the ever-steepening bit to the anchors.


6 bolts, ring anchors.


When first approaching the wall, there are three bolted lines visible to the left of a small tree. This line is the right-most of the three lines.

Right at the base is a sawn-off stump.

Photos of Jugular Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving pass the first clip, don't fall you'll land...
Moving pass the first clip, don't fall you'll land...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Jugular.
Nearing the top of Jugular.
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing the "jugular" on the hidden wal...
climbing the "jugular" on the hidden wal...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jugular - The Hidden Wall
BETA PHOTO: Jugular - The Hidden Wall

Comments on Jugular Add Comment
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By Andy VanHouten
From: Park City, UT
May 21, 2008

fun route for a warm up before getting on the .9 or the two 10's to the left. Good jugs and pockets, just gotta look for them.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 1, 2009

Drop the packs here for your warm-up! One tricky part near the start then cruse!
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2009

Very interesting route for the grade. Super fun. If the thing was 45 degrees overhung it would be an absolute classic.
By JayBrink
Jul 13, 2009

very fun
all about foot placement and kepping moving
very nice
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, seems to go from jug to slope to jug, making for interesting climbing and sometimes unexpected moments. The holds are there, but they can be tricky to find. Overall, a lot of fun.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Jun 4, 2010

I thought the holds were pretty obvious except for the single kind of tricky part at the bottom.
By Dylan Gene
From: Napa, CA
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Huge holds, lots of fun. I remember one hold was quite a stretch for me, I think it was between the second and third bolt.

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