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New Wall (AKA Kurt Russell Block)
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Big trouble in little China S 
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Don't need no names S 
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Jugs S 
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Overboard S 
unknown 1 S 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 4 S 
unknown 6 S 
unkown 8 S 

Jugs 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matthew Nunes
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Mark Nunes on Nov 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: One of Johnny Arms's latest contribution to the Ku...

Description 

It was a beautiful, fall morning, but pretty much the most crowded day at Sand Rock I've ever experienced. We ran away from Holiday Block, trying to escape the crowds, which had already worked their way down to the Sun Wall.

So off we went to the New Wall.

The only person we ran into was Johnny Arms, setting up a new route at the farthest end of the second section of the New Wall. His drill battery had just died, but not before he had set three bolts and a single shut at the top. My son and I were just finishing up on Unknown 6 when Johnny asked if my son wanted the first climb.

"I was going to call it Jugs, 'cause that's all it is," he said.

It's a fun little climb, with some enormous holds all the way up. Johnny thought it might be a soft 9, at best; the last move past the 3rd bolt probably is 9-ish, but other than that, this route is in line with the other 8's on the New Wall.

Location 

At the far end of the new wall, to the right of Unknown 8.

Protection 

Three bolts and a single open shut at the top. This is a new route (put up on 11/2/13) so be careful what you're pull on.


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By Geissler Golding
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Try to stay in-line w/ the bolts! There is a definite possibility of breaking off a piece as we found out this past weekend! Thankfully it was way right so the route is intact. I think the last move can be a little stout!
By Nathan Bratzler
From: Starkville, Mississippi
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Be careful of the very sharp holds in the beginning. Also check your feet cause the wall will break off under your feet in some places.
By Jeremy S
Apr 10, 2014

Pretty pumpy 5.8 for sure, and like others said some holds off route look shady

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