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19 - New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Falcon T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

Jugs 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Henry Barber (1974)
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route takes a path of least resistance up the knobby face to the right of Chicken Pie. It is best done in one very long pitch. An 80m rope might make it to the top of the cliff. I think with a 70m you will have to simulclimb 20ft or stop and belay at a hand crack just shy of the top.

Start a ways to the right off a boulder that touches the base of the wall. Climb up to a high first bolt, and then continue upwards to a second bolt. The bolts were recently replaced and are bomber. From the second bolt downclimb a short ways and traverse perhaps 15 feet to the left. From here continue up on smaller knobs to reach a small footledge below a water-streak. Down at the bottom of the footledge is a knob that you can tie off which protects the next crux. (It’s also possible to escape here by traversing further left on big knobs to a bolted rap anchor) Make one sort of thin move above the ledge to gain a good rail and bigger knobs in the water-streak. There is another ‘ok’ knob that can be tied off here, before you must mantel onto a hummock which is growing out of the bottom of a flake. This leads to directly below the roof where there is good gear (1”-1.5” cams). Getting over the roof is easy thanks to big knobs and then it’s a cruise to the top of the cliff.

Protection 

Bring a light rack of 1-2” cams, a couple quickdraws, and numerous slings or cords for tying off knobs.


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