REI Community
North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Argonaut , The TR 
Awakening Spirits T 
Bat Attack T,S 
Boogie Till ya Puke T 
ByPass T 
Death Wish T 
Enduro Man Rides Again T 
Filet-O-Fish T 
Indecent Exposure T 
Indian Head Direct T 
indian toe T 
Joy Loader T 
Juggerhead T 
Juggernaut T 
Lark's Tongue T 
Middle Road S 
Mighty Mouse T 
Nevermore T 
Nevermore (The other one) T 
Nicotine T,S 
Nutsweat T 
Rastafari T 
Reckless Abandon T 
Reckless Abandon Direct T 
Recommendation, The S 
Shadowdance T 
Shamans T 
Spice T 
Superman's Dead T 
Survival Of The Fittest T 
Unknown T 
Vascular Disaster T 
Visual Splendor T 
War Games T 
Windigo T 
X-Games T 


YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Zchiesche, Tom McMillan
Page Views: 1,020
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: from the pod crack follow up to the v crack in the...


Look for a short, steep, hand crack a few hundred feet before VD, uphill in a large recessed area. The actual 'hand crack' is about 20 feet off the deck. The whole route is steep and juggy, and would be excellent if the rock did not deteriorate in a big way as you get closer to the top of the cliff.

Easiest descent traverses up and right to a fixed lowering station (slings and biners around a tree). This brings you down directly over an excellent 5.8 warm up.


North End


Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos of Juggernaut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: boulder up the juggy start and go toward the left ...
BETA PHOTO: boulder up the juggy start and go toward the left ...

Comments on Juggernaut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Can you provide some more specifics about the 5.8 warm up you mentioned? Is it a named route listed here or in one of the area guides? The Nevermore chimney?

Follow-up: Seems the 5.8 "Juggerhead" that Eddie posted is the route in question. Will check it out soon!
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Jan 7, 2011

The warm up I mentioned isn't listed in any guide I have seen. It is directly to the right of Juggernaut-maybe 15 feet or so. Juggernaut is directly up a steep hill between the two main North End cliffs and has a part to miss vertical crack in the middle.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Having been up this a few times now, I can attest that there are a couple of good horizontals that can be used to set up anchors for TR near the top. The tree options on top are not very good.

To get down you have to traverse to the decent sized tree over Juggerhead about 30 feet to the right. You could probably do this by mantling onto the dirt ledge above the last gear anchor crack and walking but I found it easier to do a mini-lead diagonaling to the tree.


One more thing worth noting is that this route gets quite slick and green in the swampy summer months, noticeably worse than a lot of nearby routes. Plan on a much harder effort if climbing then. The slick quartzite also makes a few of the earlier pieces of gear a little more suspect when in these conditions.
By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of July 3, 2016, Juggernaut has a clean rappel anchor via a bomber hex and nut with stainless steel cable. No need to traverse across the briars to the top of Juggerhead anymore.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About