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Juggernaut Roof 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 3,129
Submitted By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


I haven't done this one yet. Juggernaut has an extension through the roof.


Extension of Juggernaut


4-5 bolts and chains. You can belay either on the ground or in the middle of the pitch.

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By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Fixed draws except for the first one. This climb is FUN! Don't overlook it if you're in the area.
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2012

When you try to belay from the ground, it really feels like there's to much rope drag to clip, even if you un clip the anchors after the first clip. I would recommend belaying from he top of juggernaut
By Kipp Schorr
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

^ This is horrendous beta Roy, just put a long sling on the anchors and you're in there. Great climbing, makes a classic route even better, no need to bring your bigwall tactics to AF.
By Leify Guy
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Tried belaying from the anchor, never doing that again on an extension. Had a much better time clipping a sling at the chains and linking the roof as an extension.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Sep 28, 2015

+1 to climbing as an extension. Rope drag isn't too bad. There is a nice long fixed draw on the first bolt.

As of 9/27/15, fixed draws are on all the bolts. The carabiner on the fourth or fifth bolt is getting pretty sharp and I would recommend bringing a new one to replace it. Also, one of the fixed carabiners on the anchor is very sharp and should be replaced (hopefully with steel).
By merto
Mar 14, 2016

V4-ish crux at the beginning of the roof, followed by big moves to awesome jugs. 12B
By Lotapowder
From: Sandy
Oct 12, 2016

This is an awesome roof route. There is a long sling on the first bolt and I had no rope drag on it. ALL draws are fixed. I thought the crux is at the 4th bolt and not the beginning of the roof. Save some juice to clip the chains...

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