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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: Edward Medina on May 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.
Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.
Please pass along any FA info if you have it.


Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.


#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.

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By Phil York
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Sep 21, 2012

Fun route! I did this little gem for the first time today. There is a lot more climbing on this than it looks from the ground. Great moves up top, solid gear right where you need it.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Nov 12, 2012

+1 on fun route. Sorta made me think of a harder version of "my wife's pajamas" route. Plus there is a fun and HARD (for 2-3 moves) direct variation up the rap line which makes for a good TR, or maybe a scary lead.

Updated: Decided that the direct variation is fun enough to warrant a separate entry (see The Argonaut). Given that Juggerhead was lacking a name, this likely doesn't have one either but please update if you know.

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