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Upper South Corner Cliffs
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Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 
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Jug, Tug, & Jam 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: 2013
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Begin with gymnastic moves onto a bulge under the main overhang, then jam and pull your way over that obstacle. Head up the easy slab via a right-rising crack, to a ledge under a steep face. Climb the face utilizing a maze of horizontals and shallow vertical cracks, to a sloping top-out.
Somewhat marred by the intermediate slab, and a bit wedged-in to its start (one could more easily climb through the notch to the left), this is nevertheless an interesting route.
Be careful about gear on the upper headwall. Don't pass up opportunities, or you may find yourself in trouble higher up. This is not a good beginning leader route.

Location 

Start: 5' right of the blocky notch, on the left edge of a large, low overhang.
Descend by rappel.

Protection 

Cams from 1/2 to 3"; small Tricams


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By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jan 22, 2015

Reminds me of Afternoon Delight at the Beer Walls, but harder (and less hard, because of fewer options). Also reminds me of a Gunks climb (but with friction) with the overhang and the horizontals. On top rope it felt a little easier than 5.8 but can't give a grade till I lead it. Top was a little dirty. Might play into the grade for now. These climbs at South Corner are cleaning up really fast, and this is becoming a heck of a little climbing area with a dozen great routes in a row. Reminds me of climbing at the Gunks some weekends when there are 30+ people there, so if solitude is your thing, perhaps look elsewhere.

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